Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Fall 2022 – WWD

With all the splash of color covering Europe’s men’s runways, it’s good to know that someone will always be on the sidelines. And one – more often than not – is Yohji Yamamoto.

Due to pandemic-related travel concerns, Yamamoto has not been to Paris this season. Instead, he filmed a runway show in front of a live audience at the brand’s Aoyama flagship store in Tokyo, and it was shown as part of a men’s schedule in Paris.

The show features a multi-generational cast, including five Japanese actors. They ran down the runway dressed in mostly black and white, and approached the camera, their noses almost against the lens. For those watching it on screen, it’s an intimate experience and almost as good as being there.

Yamamoto is good at setting the mood, and this time it’s an early 19th-century woman – a young Charles Dickens or Gustave Flaubert – with the wild hair and eyes of Edward Scissorhands.

Models wore black felt coats, waistcoats, and baggy trousers, outfitted with ties, brooches, crosses or scarves with exaggerated, knotted edges. Some wore sunglasses with a ’60s weird feel. The hair was wild: sculpted and stuck in a million directions, or black and long and spray-painted gray.

Midway through the show, the sombre-olux gave way to a flurry of white, in the form of thick tuxedo tops with loose, loose pleats and a series of duffel coats that looked as if they were pale dust. covered them.

Other jackets feature prints based on artwork by Polish artist Zdzislaw Beksinski. They’re smudged with green, gray, or rusty shades – like the artist’s palette – while the long, silky shirts feature a boney silhouette that matches the cool beer collection’s Victorian vibe. cool, this culture.