Glenn Martens is a busy man these days, between his creative director roles at Y/Project and Diesel, and his upcoming couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier – so who can blame him for dipping twice?
His fall coed collection for Y / Project could be read as a trailer for next week’s haute couture show, featuring optical illusion body-textured items inspired by the ‘Cyberbaba’ collection from the ’90s. Gaultier, a longtime favorite collection of celebrities including Kim Kardashian West.
Martens made it clear that it was indeed an official collaboration but for ready-to-wear. The second leather ribbed tops with a bust print are sure to trigger Instagram’s nipple moderation system, while the shirt creates the illusion of stretchy abs. Most especially, the evening jackets with vibrant motifs on the evening gowns combined with trousers.
When asked what he has in common with Gaultier, the designer said: “The fun element. I think that’s the joy, the celebration, what Jean Paul is really about. ”
Martens is set to return to the catwalk after several seasons of digital shows. Models walk the length of a sprawling hangar in an industrial area north of Paris, to the soundtrack that mixes a pulsating electronic soundtrack by Neuromaster with the soaring highs of a female voice. German singer Edda Moser performed the song Queen of the Night aria from Mozart’s opera “The Magic Flute”. ”
To spice up the event, he’s provided his cast with friends and personalities, including fellow designer Olivier Theyskens, stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington, French actress Lily Taieb and American model Meadow Walker, daughter of the late “Fast & Furious” actor Paul The Pedestrian.
Martens’ output reflects his logorrheic speech, so there are chunky outerwear pieces in his signature swirly constructions; cropped pants with embroidered back straps; knitted clothing with colorful pixellated patterns; shearling, denim and technical jackets are artistically twisted using inlaid cords – and more ideas to spare.
“I think I’ve got too much in there – I’m sorry, sorry, sorry,” he blurted out. But hey, fullness is not a sin. Savvy shoppers – including vintage Gaultier-obsessed TikTokers – will know exactly what to pick.
https://wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2022/paris/yproject/review/ Why the New Y/Project Collection Should Please Vintage Fans on TikTok – WWD