Vitelli RTW Spring 2022 – WWD

Daring, experimental and multilayered are ideas that got here to thoughts on the first Vitelli runway present. Mauro Simionato established the knitwear model in 2016 and has since drawn a collective of artistic artisans, all of whom consider in a slower strategy to vogue, together with supplying upcycled materials, scraps and yarns to develop textiles on the Natural Knitting Theater, the model’s materials R&D middle.

The look: Impressed by the journeys of non secular wanderers throughout the “Overland” route — often known as the “Hippie path” — within the Sixties and Seventies, the collective utilized each knitting method one can consider for this arty artful assortment. Bulbous and infrequently shapeless appears to be like, with caftan-like vests, tight tops and ribbed pajama pants, in addition to twisted tops and sweaters, had been multilayered in additional methods than one. Not solely had been completely different patterns juxtaposed for a clashing impact, however the abundance of textured surfaces on every look, if not each bit, was excessive.

Quote of be aware: “We’re native-fluid and accountable. We stand for a decolonized, cross-cultural future. We’re the multiethnic punks of Italian couture,” the collective proclaimed within the present notes.

Key items: A gauge see-through sweater with elongated sleeves paired with textured flared pants was languid and sensual; blazers and shirtdresses embroidered with wool yarns in a rainbow shade palette that seemed to be impressed by Jackson Pollock work; patchwork strapless attire, twisted and crumpled with scraps of materials snaking over the bodice; crochet Bermuda shorts with floral sample.

Takeaway: Simionato and the Vitelli collective are rising stars within the Milanese vogue scene, and their expertise is indeniable. Their urge to show it with such a multifaceted assortment wasn’t needed, however they’ll certainly be taught that enhancing can profit the end result.