Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2022 – WWD

Softness and texture. Escapism is full of aspiration and reality. A distinct sense of discovery and femininity. Ulla Johnson’s pre-fall collection has it all.

“We did the Santa Fe scene – I was inspired by [Georgia] O’Keeffe’s landscape paintings will be included in this collection. The way she uses these clear whites, the shadows, the architectural shapes, and the soft, fuzzy edges. We played a lot between the idea of ​​softness and structure, so in all the groups you’ll see where we’ve limited traps and aggregations, body parts are defined and then soft mass. We also played a lot between different prints,” Johnson explained during a gallery tour. “The idea of ​​shadow and light, transparency and opacity. We played with classic, eye-catching black, white and red. That was the highlight of this season. “

The idea of ​​transparency and shadow casts itself for detailed, handcrafted French lace garments, created with seven different ropes joined together, as well as a Battenberg lace collar on the top. sun-kissed pale blue linen or black and white textured high tops and crochet skirts made in Romania (one of which is a sports designer for a date). Crochet silhouettes, button-down and lacing details, skin-opening on skirts, blouses and even swimwear have been added to the concept.

A chunky, cropped cable-knit cream cardigan (handcrafted in New York), styled over a soft skirt that boasts proportions and volume, as does the outerwear ( an Italian herringbone jacket resembling a cocoon wrapped with lining or stuffed with buttons (utility jacket) atop a faint geometric divider.

“Yes – she is less well known – but O’Keeffe had a prolific period in Maui doing all these bird-of-paradise and flower paintings, so that’s a different picture right now.” with the palette, a very saturated tropical feel,” notes Johnson of her other in-forward designs.

The signature print mix comes through a camisole with a “Bird of Paradise” print, which combines eight prints that stack and blend into its pleated bodice and tiered skirt. For the look book, hand-woven ensembles are styled above and below are bright O’Keeffe-inspired florals, skirts, dresses and blouses with puffy and ruched sleeves.

“There is an idea of ​​escapism and fantasy that I believe has always existed in fashion and especially in my collection, especially right now. We thought of this idea about memories, travel, what you take away and things that continue to evolve over time,” she explains.

Each style is styled with different recycled brass and semi-precious jewelry (a continuation of her partnership with artisans in Africa), Italian-made soft structured handbags Produced with hand-forged details and footwear, like a soft leather slide with a resin bead strap.

“It was like found objects,” she noted. “O’Keeffe is a huge collector, and so am I. This idea of ​​small moments gathered over time is something we’ve always wanted to bring.”

The brand ethos and inspiration of Johnson’s collection spans countless references and ideas “touched by time”, as well as her ready-to-wear clothing and accessories. Now, a new, emerging brand logo with before autumn season, is set to fit that idea.

“That was the idea when we relaunched our logo – we wanted something that felt like it was always ours. It’s not about leaving or wanting to be wildly different,” she explains. “[The former] It can be a little formal, and we wanted something with a handcrafted feel – having this softness in each letter represents the spirit that has always been with us, which is what I wanted my collection to feel. see how and is something we’re looking to build into the future, something that transcends a moment or season. “

With one Open shop on the horizon, her sights set on Europe, and referring to the future launch of a denim category, alongside her already booming business, Johnson is on her way to her brand legacy. the sign she envisioned.