Trussardi CEO Sebastian Suhl Reveals New Brand Identity – WWD

MILAN – Expect a change in Trussardi.

An interview with chief executive Sebastian Suhl at the brand’s Milan headquarters near the La Scala theater conveyed an idea of ​​future developments, as the entire building remains concealed by scaffolding. , symbolizing the new direction of the company.

“Things won’t be the same again,” promised Suhl, who had gathered Trussardidifferent operations under one roof, team building design, digital, marketing and management, since his appearance in October 2020.

Not everything has to work out, however, as Trussardi – one of the first fashion houses to have a restaurant in the palace – will continue to make food a key element of its lifestyle appeal. of the brand. In his first interview since joining the company, Suhl said he has signed an agreement with a new partner, while remaining the mother of the details. The restaurant is never an afterthought, having won several awards, such as its first Michelin star under chef Andrea Berton in 2008.

Suhl described the building as the residence of the flag, undergoing a complete refurbishment, as “the focal point”, also because of its central location and prestige. While works will be completed in the second half of this year, Trussardi will present the first fashion designs by creative directors Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby on February 26 during Milan Fashion Week. .

Design duo was appointed to this role last May. Işık and Huseby design their own labels, Berlinbased on GmbH, launched in 2016, and known for their commitment to inclusiveness and sustainability as well as their socially engaged stance.

Suhl introduced this vision and the talent of the designers, which he believes will be able to reflect a “younger and more accessible Trussardi, elegant and timeless, not classic but modern,” in line with the late Nicola Trussardi’s vision of the future, believing in “dedicating to the city, opening fashion to the outside world, to culture and art.” For example, he was a pioneer in organizing famous fashion shows in Milan’s Piazza Duomo next to the church, when this was a novelty. This businessman died in 1999 in a car accident.

“The brand had pedigree and heritage, but it lacked a creative direction that would tie back the original values ​​of the brand,” argues Suhl.

Trussardi hasn’t had a creative director since Gaia Trussardi’s departure in 2018. She’s succeeded the likes of Umit Benan Sahin and Milan Vukmirovic.

The brand is marking an important milestone in 2022, founded 111 years ago. The brand’s signature greyhound logo, first introduced in 1973, and its lettering are being revisited for “a cleaner and more modern, fresher letter with ample spacing” in a new font. Suhl describes the gray hound symbol as “a colossal, recognizable asset” and that it is being modernized into a graphic circular form inspired by ouroboros, the ancient symbol depicting a snake or dragon eating its own tail – represents the eternal and cyclical renewal of life.

Suhl has cut down on the “previously complex set of many Trussardi brands” to focus on a single signature brand, which he believes has “a very high reputation, standing for leather goods in collective memory.” but at the same time there is potential growth, while reaching younger generations who may not be familiar with it. The opportunity also lies in markets like the US, he noted. The company has about 60 stores, 30 franchisees, and the brand is present in 900 stores worldwide.

The CEO brings years of experience in developing brands globally. Previously, he served as managing director of global markets at Valentino, and before that as chief executive officer of Marc Jacobs International, the company left after 3 years of employment, during which he was assigned responsibility for the preparation. house for the original. public offering, never happened. Suhl took the lead in phasing out the Marc by Marc Jacobs label introduced in 2000, reinforcing the signature brand, focusing on accessories and tightening the label’s retail footprint.

He came to Marc Jacobs in 2014 from Givenchy after 11 years of career at Prada Group.

Suhl joins Trussardi after independent Italian asset management company QuattroR, chaired by Andrea Morante, specializes in corporate restructuring.take a controlling stake in the company in 2019.

Siblings Gaia, Beatrice and Tomaso Trussardi, Nicola’s children, are no longer involved in running the company.

Trussardi is also set to present its in-house collection during Milan’s international furniture and design trade show, Salone del Mobile, which has reportedly been moved to June after the Omicron variant. This used to be a strong Trussardi business that, along with perfumery, was licensed to Angelini Beauty.

While Suhl declined to disclose sales figures for the brand, given the ongoing transformation, he said that following the disruption caused by the pandemic, he has seen business rebound in the second half. last year, with growth comparable to 2019 levels.

E-commerce is also showing strong activity, becoming “a major part of the business, accounting for a third of Trussardi’s wholesale channel”. The company’s own online store is available in the eurozone and will enter China and Russia next year.

In the spring, Trussardi will release its sustainability report as it is also redesigning its products and packaging with eco-friendly materials.