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This designer wants to make your back roll stand out

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Photo: Adama Jalloh

Karoline Vitto, a designer originally from Brazil and living in London, fell in love with curves and bodies as a student. Her understanding deepened as she began experimenting with her own body as part of the design process for her 2019 thesis, called “Body as Matter,” at Royal College of Arts.

This feature became part of her design process. Many fashion brands design for slimmer bodies and increase proportions so that extra size options appear included, which causes the clothes to not fit properly. But the Vitto, which ranges in size from UK 8 to 28, or US 4-24, and can also be made to order, starts with a larger body and adapts to smaller sizes.

“You have to be a little more ingenious when designing because of the way you adapt to crotch length or wider,” she explains. “Not only does it take more fabric, but you may also need another seam or a different cut altogether. Having all these design challenges come with a larger size will make you a better designer. ”

Photo: Lucas Fonseca, Courtesy of Karoline Vitto

Vitto grew up in a town of just under 80,000 people in the south of Brazil called Caçador; She learned drawing and basic sewing skills from her mother. “My grandmother used to make all her clothes, and my grandfather was a shoemaker,” she said. “My mother learned from them, and then I learned from her.”

Despite coming from a family background, Vitto did not think that he would pursue the fashion industry. Knowing only that she wanted to pursue a “life of creativity,” as well as “something that could be a little bit technical,” she went to Santa Catarina State University to study architecture in the south. Brazil. But then she became frustrated, wanting something more immediate fun so she could see the results of her design come to fruition within a year. That’s when she moved to London, where she took a one-year course at Central Saint Martins, learning more advanced techniques and how to combine materials like metals, elastomers, shirts and knits .

Photo: Adama Jalloh

While her master’s collection was personal and brainy, Vitto began to listen to other women more. She said, for one of her clients, unsurprisingly, doesn’t like being upset. Wearability is an element she’s working on now, still highlighting similar areas of the body but in a softer, more subdued way. Instead of elastic bands and copper loops to tighten the body, an approach she used earlier in her career, she added cashmere knits and transparent nylon for a combination of comfort, supportive and sexy in skimpy tops and tights. The birth of knitwear is no accident. In addition, her inspiration is Azzedine Alaïa as well as Peter Lindbergh’s photography during the 90s supermodel era. “I would love to bring those dreams and fantasies to a more diverse body perspective. ,” she said.

Photo: Eva Sanchez, Courtesy of Karoline Vitto

That sounds like a lot for such a young brand that, with no outside funding, relies solely on direct-to-consumer sales based on website and Instagram, but this model also allows her to avoid working with a factory. Doing so will require her to make 100 to 200 pieces at a time, limited to a few sizes. “So how can I do that while including the dimensions?”

Vitto says she often receives messages on social media confirming her job. “There was a girl who texted me that she never wanted to show her back until she saw pictures of them on my Instagram and liked how it looked,” says Vitto. “Then she also looked at herself differently. Hearing that really keeps me going, because I know I’m making a positive impact on some people. “

https://www.thecut.com/2021/11/this-designer-would-like-to-accentuate-your-back-rolls.html | This designer wants to make your back roll stand out

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