Thamee restaurant review: It reinvents itself, but the soulful cooking remains

Thamee retains an herb backyard on its patio. Seemingly each plant — lemongrass, mint, cilantro, lime leaves — makes its method into the chef’s golden-green floor pork meatballs, dense, scrumptious, a contact bitter. Chances are you’ll suppose you recognize what to anticipate of a samusa. The shock right here is the form and texture; mine was the scale a pocket ebook and shattered like a croissant. Jafar Umarov, the sous-chef who impressed the dish, is from Tajikistan, the place such flaky pastries are extra widespread. The filling, from Regulation-Yone, is all hers: diced potatoes (uncooked and cooked), peas and onions punched up with garlic and ginger. Three of us cut up the appetizer, and all of us wished we had ordered our personal. Intensifying the enjoyable is a tamarind sauce, darkish with fermented Chinese language black beans. “We’re into the funk,” says the chef. | Thamee restaurant review: It reinvents itself, however the soulful cooking stays


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