Serge Ruffieux diverted yards and yards of silk canvas and miles of velvet ribbons and silky cords from the incinerator, drafting these surplus, deadstock supplies to create eye-catching flat footwear which might be squishy, sometimes sparkly — and all the time craft-intensive.
“Gentle, playful and never too critical,” was how he described the primary designs beneath his new equipment model 13 09 SR, which might be out there for pre-order from immediately on his new e-store, after which arrive in a couple of dozen specialty shops, together with 10 Corso Como in Milan, early subsequent 12 months.
“One other precedence for me is consolation,” he stated, displaying off the padded shoe beds and supple, pebbled rubber soles of his fringed moccasins, pointy mules and puffy sandals.
With their twisted and scrunched silk straps certain in ribbons, cords and rhinestones, Ruffieux’s shoe designs have a DIY side that he acknowledged is troublesome to comprehend, given how industrialized footwear manufacturing has develop into.
But he and enterprise accomplice Emile Faure insisted on utilizing as few virgin supplies as doable, amassing deadstock leather-based, jacquards and silks for footwear; eco-friendly acetate for eyewear, and deadstock crystals and beads for bedazzled variations of the neoprene sunglass straps surfers put on.
Sneakers are to retail from 390 to 790 euros, sun shades from 280 to 435 euros and straps from 190 to 470 euros. French optician Marc Le Bihan — the launchpad for the likes of Linda Farrow and Jacquemus eyewear — has the bricks-and-mortar unique for the sun shades.
Footwear is manufactured in Italy and Romania, whereas the eyewear is realized by a small, family-run agency in Cortina, Italy.
Ruffieux, who wrapped a three-season stint as inventive director of Carven in 2018, made an impression there with ingenious, festive footwear festooned with tassels, pom-poms and colour — an aesthetic that carries over into the 13 09 SR undertaking, named after his birthdate and initials.
Ruffieux first got here to the business’s consideration following the 2015 exit of Raf Simons from Dior, when he became co-artistic director with Lucie Meier for just a few seasons. He labored for Dior for eight years, rising to go designer of Dior’s girls’s ready-to-wear and high fashion studios, and earlier than that spent 5 years at Sonia Rykiel.
His cofounder Faure was previously a journalist at Le Figaro who now takes care of the enterprise and communications at 13 09 SR, a facet undertaking for Ruffieux, who additionally ghost designs collections and retailer ideas for a big, established Chinese language vogue retailer.
Ruffieux has been teasing the model spirit on 13 09 SR’s Instagram account, posting limbs certain with ropes and a various forged of kids displaying numerous pores and skin. Marketing campaign photos by Zachary Handley spotlight the unvarnished look, and playful spirit, of the footwear.
Ruffieux stated he has no mounted concepts relating to the following class he and Faure may launch, although he just lately mused that lipstick would match into their idea of “comfortable purchases.” They’ve already began work on the autumn 2022 assortment of footwear and sun shades.
https://wwd.com/accessories-news/footwear/serge-ruffieux-shoes-eco-sustainable-1234976812/ | Serge Ruffieux’s Eco Sneakers Are Squishy, Sparkly – and a Bit DIY – WWD