Sean Suen Men’s Fall 2022 – WWD

Sean Suen is going through a transition this season. The Beijing-based designer, known for his edgy outfits that often have a bit of a tough edge, has added a softer touch to his latest collection.

Such pickiness reflects the designer’s own pensive mood, the roller coaster of emotions, disconnection and loneliness he experienced during periods of restraint throughout his life. The COVID-19 crisis is always changing. The designer told WWD that his emotional state and creation in a vacuum made this collection a “huge step forward” from the last collection.

However, Suen’s skillful reinterpretation of traditional Chinese garments remains the foundation of the collection. He opens with cozy cream-colored trousers, a soft sweater, and a scarf wrapped around him, evoking a kasaya. The padded jacket has been reviewed and given the volume, first in herringbone wool and then in black leather. Broad shoulders dominate the extended silhouette on flimsy suits and coats, while some sets exaggerate enough to be interpreted as armor. Here, he also plays with proportions, the sleeves to the long fist disappear, but the short tunic has a bit of thigh.

“From the initial feeling of anxiety to the extreme paranoia after isolating ourselves, this is the real feeling of loneliness we get from around us,” he says. “In the end, we have to calm down and move on, because we can’t go back.”

Suen moves through a range of muted colors, from cream opening through greys, beiges and browns before finally turning to black, which feels like a triumphant comeback for the creative designer.