Sartorial Clothing Rebooted at Milan Men’s Fashion Week for Fall 2022 – WWD

The latest men’s season in Milan celebrated the return of the dress code and saw designers change the rules of the runway sart, making it look more pragmatic and relevant. with the times.

Beyond the catwalks, high-end and contemporary men’s brands glamor with their wardrobe-building essentials, exquisitely crafted from premium textiles and intended to provide men with stylish outfits. easily dressed with a certain flair.

Among them, Slowear dodge the pandemic blue with moody earth tones and seductive color combinations, play with separation as in gentle pleated velvet pants paired with a tweed jacket and knit cardigan or replace the shirt with polo layered under a Prince of Wales coat and a matte mohair coat. Part of the collection was inspired by navy wear with duffle coats and fisherman sweaters teamed with plaid shirts.

Slowear is like an incubator for the affordable luxury brands under its umbrella, ranging from underpants maker Incotex and Zanone to knitwear, to shirt maker Glanshirt and brand names. Montedoro outerwear. For the fall, it proved its ability to provide a casual and appealing overall look while keeping each category independent for international wholesale purposes.

Also aiming to grow its business globally, based in the US Brett Johnson has been based in Milan since 2019 with headquarters in the city and closer to the manufacturing centers he trusts to craft his luxurious and sophisticated collection.

The designer and entrepreneur didn’t attend his fall presentation, which echoes the verdant landscape of Virginia, where he recently moved in with his growing family and newborn baby. .

Johnson continues to strike a balance between sophistication and comfort through feathers. Drawstring velvet trousers are so light that one would hardly believe they are winter wear, while jackets designed in cashmere and silk allow for shirt-like movement, carrying to a more relaxed and youthful overall than in previous seasons.

SeventeenMenswear founder and creative director Marco Baldassari also infused a laid-back attitude into the brand’s fall collection, as he pinpointed “vibes and happiness” as key elements. What defines luxury today. So he reworked sartorial staples, including cashmere coats and blazers, with relaxed silhouettes for enhanced comfort and mobility, and incorporated them into casual outfits. more commonly, from turtlenecks and turtlenecks to hoodies.

Pleated trousers and baggy trousers add to the comfort of the lineup, with a focus on layering accessible items presented in a subdued palette of white, beige, sequins and light gray. .

With the same spirit of effort, Boglioli introduced a powerful, new light collection of its tailoring expertise. A dynamic spin has been introduced into tailored velvet jackets and suits, to be worn with trousers and sneakers.

Sartorial staples are also intricately sculpted, including herringbone, Prince of Wales and burlap sack, while parkas, field jackets and bomber jackets are handcrafted from cover materials. including Shetland wool, flannel and regenerated cashmere.

Boglioli’s signature K-shirt has been revamped with wider lapels, linear stitching and a patch pocket, giving the hunting jacket a more appealing look. The entire collection is filled with high-end pieces to choose from and include in one’s everyday wardrobe – so much so that the brand decided to launch womenswear this season to provide a new spin on the look. everybody.

Another brand that is on the move, despite the pandemic, is PT Torino, the tights maker in 2021 launched its first ready-to-wear collection, expanding its range beyond just trousers. For the fall, sharp surface scratches are conveyed through a colorless video, one can spot a range of high-quality basics, from tank tops to checkered pants and other jackets. , cut loose and comfortable to appeal to younger audiences.