SHANGHAI — Samuel Gui Yang was the massive winner Friday night time on the Hu Fashion Ahead Prize, an occasion celebrating the most effective and brightest of Chinese language fashion, with Louis Shengtao Chen, Penultimate, Smooth Mountains and Von Venture additionally honored for his or her work.
Yang, a Central Saint Martins-educated designer recognized for his elegant and relaxed interpretations of conventional Chinese language gown codes, walked away with the biggest prize cash of 500,000 renminbi, or $77,600, whereas the opposite 4 honorees had been every awarded 150,000 renminbi, or $23,300.
The occasion was organized by the influential Shanghai boutique Le Monde De SHC for the primary time this 12 months and sponsored by H&M to help the fast-rising, subsequent technology of Chinese language trend expertise. Round 150 visitors gathered for a gala dinner held at Shanghai’s historic Paramount ballroom to see the winners.
“I’m actually enthusiastic about this prize,” mentioned Yang. “We already work with LMDS. Eric Younger has been very supportive. He got here to my showroom first and had very exact opinions. In a while I noticed it was precisely the suitable channel and the suitable viewers I’ve been seeking to strategy. The viewers has a sure degree of trend and sure degree of tradition as effectively. That to me was a turning level — when LMDS started to exist and picked up a choice of my model.”
Yang began his model in 2015 and has offered 11 seasons, with the newest assortment proven final week in Shanghai. “I all the time think about a lady that has an Asian face however she’s international, she has fluidity…somebody who enjoys herself,” the designer mentioned.
“I hope that the prize may help give China a voice and it will probably characterize one thing contemporary,” mentioned Eric Younger, founding father of LMDS and the HFF Prize. He additionally shared he hopes to proceed with the occasion yearly and widen its scope.
“Really sooner or later, we received’t essentially simply settle for Chinese language designers, however will look extra to see if you’re a model related to the China market,” mentioned Younger.
There have been 13 finalists within the operating this 12 months. Though there are 15 attainable spots, Windowsen and Smooth Mountains had been nominated in two classes. Not like most different trend prizes, the HFF invitations the general public to vote for every class together with business judges. Almost 30,000 votes had been acquired and people fashioned 15 % of every designer’s rating.
The New Ahead Prize, which works to a designer who offered their first assortment throughout the final 12 months, went to Louis Shengtao Chen, a Chongqing-based designer, who has put out two collections up to now.
Julio Ng, a prize juror and director at Seiya Nakamura 2.24, known as Chen’s work “a universe that deserves to current to a world stage and to make everybody’s life somewhat extra poetic and glamorous.”
The China Ahead Prize, which scouts for the progressive mixture of conventional Chinese language aesthetic and up to date design, went to Penultimate’s Xiang Gao, who previously educated underneath Raf Simons at Calvin Klein.
The ACC Ahead Prize, which awards equipment manufacturers, went to Smooth Mountains, a up to date jewellery label created by Lengthy Ziwei, who’s of Nuosu background, a Chinese language ethnic minority, and a graduate of the London Faculty of Vogue.
“She actually goes into the tribes of inland China and in that space we’ve got a wealthy useful resource of methods the way to make clothes, embroidery and jewellery,” mentioned Jojo Qian, one other prize juror and founding father of artistic company, Pink Studio. “She’s very shut with the native employees and so they work out new methods to make extra up to date jewellery which is derived from the Miao ethnic group.”
The Sustainability Award went to Von Venture and the Wushuiyuntai Miao embroidery workshop. Von Venture was arrange in 2019 by Wang Yunan, who companions with native artisans in Guizhou to include their dyeing, brocade and embroidery methods into fashionable designs.
“We had been simply blown away with, for her, it’s a life-style,” mentioned Andreas Lowenstam, H&M China’s males’s put on BU accountable. “What she’s doing on the subject of the sources, the manufacturing, the shut work with, you possibly can’t say even that it’s suppliers as a result of it’s on such a small scale. She’s very forefront and we all know she’s going to encourage the complete business and it doesn’t essentially have to be huge enterprise to be inspiring.”
The night time started with a designer showcase that includes work from a variety of younger Chinese language designers that encompassed the finalists but additionally others like Victor Wang, Rui and Yueqi Qi. Dinner was interspersed with performances together with an acrobatic troupe, plate spinners, drag queens and singers who belted out previous Teresa Teng tunes.
Trophies for the HFF Prize had been designed to appear like the Yangtze finless porpoise, an animal that migrates between the East China Sea and the Yangtze River, a metaphor for this cohort of designers that go between China and the world.
https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/hu-fashion-forward-prize-2021-winner-1234976759/ | Samuel Gui Yang Wins Hu Vogue Ahead Prize – WWD