Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2022 – WWD

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Fernandez of Proenza Schouler wanted women to play with their clothes.

Their sporty pre-fall vision is for versatility, multi-use and stretch along with plush calf fur, leopard print, velvet and feathers for a collection that theoretically has can bring a woman from her Peloton to Pastis – if she likes to work out that means in ostrich-trimmed cycling shorts.

While not exactly performance wear, these clothes are made to adapt and move – and look great doing it.

Go for the green viscose racer-back strapless dress, which can be wrapped and fitted in a number of ways using an oversized jewel-encrusted safety pin.

“It is friendly to many different body shapes,” says McCollough. “In particular, a lot of dresses are quite versatile – you can belt them up in the front and make them baggy and loose in the back, or wear them open and loose. We’ve done all these sleeve buttons on dresses that you can either knot all the way down or unbutton and open to create this ruffle look. We love clothes that you can wear in so many different ways. ”

Hernandez added: “It’s nice to have fun with clothes.

A sleeveless black pleated halter dress with a crocheted cardigan in the center and bubble trim can be worn with leggings by day and heels by night, while a white crepe dress with long cuffed sleeves. Adjustable buttons have an extra leopard print lining that shows up when the body moves. .

A black napa-glove leather skirt looks as light as an umbrella, as does a floor-length sequined dress with the ease of a t-shirt, tied with a belt in the front and dropped down. in a dramatic long robe in the back.

“Last season, we were inspired by travel… and the freedom to finally explore the world. This is the record of that season but brings her back to the city.… It’s more urban, fancier and more fun,” said Fernandez.

Their client may return to the real world after their first stay after being locked out, but she doesn’t intend to sacrifice comfort.

For example, the designers have improved on a long, slim, side-buttoned jacket with slim sleeves and rounded shoulders, a style that first appeared on Ella Emhoff in the fall of 2021. For the time being. Fall it’s less soft and more stretchy, in powder blue stretch crepe or abstract zebra stretch jacquard, with an extra-long buckle that doesn’t buckle at the ankle and spills out over the square sole.

“It’s this amazing stretch woven fabric that really stretches on both the long and the criss. We’ve removed the shoulder pads and lining, so it has the sharpness of a suit but the ease and stretch of a knitwear piece. It has a modern feel,” says Hernandez.

The car jacket is another important piece, beautifully adorned with calves red lipstick and worn over cropped, feather-trimmed black trousers that promote a comeback. bright light. The designers’ new Braid bag, made of molded Neoprene with a soft, puffy braided strap, also has a sporty flair.

“We wanted to bring the style of sportswear to urban tailoring,” says Hernandez.

The designers worked to extend their brand to more women by launching the White Label label at a lower price, incorporating more comfortable fabrics and expanding the accessory offering. This collection is another step in that direction.

It should be noted that although they have successfully collaborated for many seasons with Birkenstock, they have never done a real sportswear collaboration. Maybe it’s time.