Pieter Mulier Went Sexy and Experimental for His Second Alaïa Show – WWD

If Pieter Mulier’s debut at Alaïa was a resounding success, his sophomore endeavor feels freer, bolder – and more conceptual.

He made meticulous constructions of what is known inside the house as “Spanish dresses” from the late ’80s and pulled the skirts down just above the knee, creating beautiful silhouettes. the most impressive and alluring bell bottom pants in Paris. The flared fabric sometimes appears on just one leg of a one-shoulder, one-legged catsuit, reminiscent of Bowie from the Ziggy Stardust era, and the more recent Rick Owens menswear collection.

Bells were also added to the white cotton turtleneck boots, giving the uncanny impression of a shimmering flowing dress closer to the ground.

It was a show of bloodshed, models stalking the narrow, glossy black runways in knitted sock-like fabrics that pulled up to their breasts, and tube skirts of varying transparency, many with fishtails in full bloom. A pair of bomber-based tube skirts and perfecto jackets, zippers down around the hips.

These two glamor silhouettes dominated the show, with several catsuits incorporating denim legs; others are a thick ruffled coat of long hairs.

In contrast, Mulier became known for her shiny patent leather Greta Garbo coats, one with a built-in shirt hood.

Smells like Poiret perfumes and mid-century haute couture in oversized tailoring, with Élise Crombez looking chic and mysterious in a cocoon double-breasted jacket with a belt that hobbles gently down to the knees. This 1920s glamor is also felt in poplin tuxedo shirts that are extended into fishtail dresses.

The performance climaxed with a series of white knitted tube dresses hand-crafted by Pablo Picasso, whose bottle pottery from the 1940s was brought to life, with faces etched on the pieces. turtleneck top and bust bordered with embroidered dots.

“I always thought they were very Azzedine. There’s raw, pagan beauty about them – the ultimate goddesses,” Mulier enthused during a post-performance debate, noting that the dresses, were handcrafted with his son and estate in mind. artist, will be sold as a limited edition in the Alaïa Store.