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Paris Fashion Museum Stages First Show of Its Permanent Collection – WWD

PARIS The Palais Galliera is staging the primary exhibition of its everlasting vogue assortment, with a present of 350 items of clothes, equipment and paperwork spanning from the 18th century to the current day.

“Une Histoire de la Mode” (“A Historical past of Style”) is on show till June 26 within the new space for everlasting exhibitions situated within the museum’s basement, generally known as the “Gabrielle Chanel Galleries,” as the French luxury house sponsored the renovation.

In the meantime, an exhibition celebrating the centenary of Paris Vogue has taken over the bottom flooring of the establishment. Each exhibits opened on Saturday, amid Paris Style Week, after being delayed a number of instances because of the coronavirus pandemic.

“For this primary presentation, we determined to inform two parallel tales: a historical past of vogue, but in addition a historical past of the museum’s collections,” stated Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera. “It’s a really Parisian historical past, as a result of it’s primarily a French assortment.”

The Galliera is without doubt one of the few museums worldwide devoted to vogue, alongside the Costume Institute on the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork in New York Metropolis, the gallery of vogue on the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and the MoMu Style Museum Antwerp in Antwerp, Belgium. But its future has been tortuous.

Commissioned by Maria Brignole-Sale, the Duchess of Galliera, to accommodate her huge assortment of artwork, the Italianate constructing designed by architect Paul-René-Léon Ginain was accomplished in 1894. Resulting from authorized points, the duchess ended up donating the artwork to her residence metropolis of Genoa in Italy, leaving the palace with no clear function.

In 1977, it was formally designated as the town’s vogue museum. However regardless of proudly owning a everlasting assortment of greater than 200,000 items of clothes, equipment, images, sketches, industrial designs and prints, the establishment has by no means had house to indicate it.

With its exhibition house now doubled, it is going to be in a position to alternate between bigger short-term exhibitions and rotating shows of its archives.

The inaugural exhibition was initially conceived to mark the a hundredth anniversary of the museum’s founding act: the donation in 1920 to the Metropolis of Paris of greater than 2,000 items of clothes by the Society of Costume Historical past. They embrace a darkish males’s coat dated between 1660 and 1675, displayed close to the doorway.

A men's coat, circa 1660-1675.

A males’s coat, circa 1660-1675.
Stanislas Wolff/Courtesy of Paris Musées, Palais Galliera

Whereas Arzalluz’s predecessor, Olivier Saillard, pulled among the items for short-term exhibitions, like “Anatomy of a Collection,” a lot of them haven’t been aired for some time. The truth is, they’re so fragile that some should get replaced midway by way of the exhibition, which is able to shut for 3 weeks to permit for the change.

The outfits are displayed in chronological order, with sections devoted to males’s waistcoats from the 18th and Nineteenth centuries; Nineteenth-century bustles; couturier Paul Poiret, and the assorted many years of the twentieth century, together with the Occupation interval throughout World Battle Two, richly documented within the museum’s archive.

“We give attention to particular themes, as a result of it’s not possible to inform the entire story,” stated Arzalluz.

In 1970, Balenciaga grew to become the primary home to donate prototypes from its collections to the establishment, a practice that continues to this present day.

The majority of the museum’s acquisitions immediately are modern designs, bought due to the proceeds of the annual Vogue Paris Basis gala, historically held during Paris Couture Week in July.

“The muse contributes on common 200,000 euros per 12 months,” stated Arzalluz. “It’s essential, since our personal annual finances for acquisitions is way smaller.”

A Rick Owens outfit, spring-summer 2019.

A Rick Owens outfit, spring 2019.
Stanislas Wolff/Courtesy of Paris Musées, Palais Galliera

The purchases are made underneath the steerage of curator Alexandre Samson, director of latest collections at Palais Galliera. “We attempt to observe scientific standards of relevance and impression,” Arzalluz stated, acknowledging that historical past may trigger a few of these decisions to be re-evaluated.

Whereas displaying garments poses many challenges, each organizational and logistical, cash stays a perennial concern.

“We’ve got to proceed to replenish the gathering, perhaps extra rapidly now so as to have the ability to renew this exhibition, and in addition to finance the restoration of the items to allow them to go on show. That’s why there aren’t many everlasting vogue galleries on the planet,” she stated.

“We speak loads [among fashion museums] as a result of we’re all coping with the identical points and challenges. Having stated that, it’s a good looking venture that responds to an actual demand from our viewers and from the general public basically,” she added.

The “Vogue Paris 1920-2020” exhibition makes a helpful complement to the designs from the final 100 years, with a wealth of images by the likes of Horst P. Horst, Man Bourdin, William Klein, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, and Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

The present is split into sections organized by editor in chief, starting with Michel de Brunhoff and ending with Emmanuelle Alt, whose swan track was the October 2021 issue, celebrating the journal’s 100 years.

“It’s the top of a narrative, and it’s fairly an uncommon coincidence for this exhibition,” stated Sylvie Lécallier, head of Galliera’s photographic assortment, who curated the show with the assistance of a recent artwork historian and a researcher in media historical past.

“The historical past of the journal story had by no means been written, as a result of all of the exhibitions and publications up to now had been organized by the journal or the [Condé Nast] group itself, telling their very own story,” she famous.

Particular sections highlight Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, who loved privileged relationships with the publication, and Catherine Deneuve and Kate Moss, who scored the document for many covers. The present is ready to run till Jan. 30.

Christian Bérard, Alix dress, Vogue Paris October 1938

Christian Bérard, Alix costume, Vogue Paris October 1938.
Christian Bérard/Courtesy of Paris Musées, Palais Galliera

See additionally:

Palais Galliera Director Seeks More Space for Women

Palais Galliera to Reopen With Gabrielle Chanel Retrospective

Palais Galliera Names Miren Arzalluz New Director

 

https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/palais-galliera-first-exhibition-permanent-fashion-collection-chanel-vogue-paris-1234961804/ | Paris Style Museum Levels First Present of Its Everlasting Assortment – WWD

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