MILAN – There is no such thing as too much beauty.
While the industry is questioning whether the global beauty market has reached saturation point, a new wave of indie brands is on the rise. Italy, a country known for its strong supply chains and top cosmetics manufacturers rather than blockbuster brands.
But as the pandemic accelerates digitization in markets and local consumers become more and more accustomed to shopping online, a new generation of entrepreneurs has seen on the endless shelves of the digital world. opportunity to compete and ultimately try to change the paradigm that has nurtured Italian beauty. the player plays the role behind the scenes rather than in the limelight.
According to the most recent forecasts released by Cosmetica Italia, the country’s beauty market is expected to report a revenue increase of 8.5% to 10.6 billion euros in 2021, as all distribution channels showed signs of recovery last year. Online sales are expected to record the biggest growth with an increase of 29.7%. Although in terms of value, online sales still represent a small share – at 900 million euros – there is still significant growth potential in this channel.
Over the past few years, a number of digital-original brands have embraced this potential and leveraged the disruption caused by the pandemic to grow. Examples from Skin Lab and Shampora, which last year expanded into new markets with accessible skin care and customizable hair care products, corresponding to Veralab body care brand launched by social personality Cristina Fogazzi in 2015. Veralab has grown exponentially during the pandemic, almost doubling sales in 2019 to reach 55 million euros in 2020. , allowing Fogazzi to supplement e-commerce with physical stores in Milan and Rome, promoting distribution in the Rinascente department store and corners in Pinalli chain of perfume stores, as well as launching in pharmacies last year.
While Zago Cosmetics Continuing to build on a niche core of alternative products, new brands targeting consumer lifestyles rather than specific conditions were introduced during the past quarter, including Sinesia and Syster Beauty.
One of the first in Italy to anticipate the need for a quick and unfussy beauty routine, Espresso coffee remains one of the most convincing examples in the indie segment. The Instagram-friendly makeup brand launched by Chiara Cascella in 2018 has become a favorite among Millennial customers because of its focused assortment, compelling images, engaging communications, and marketing campaigns. smart, from temporary stores installed in newsstands to collaborations with indie artists and galleries.
While gradually expanding its assortment and footprint with partnerships, such as with Sephora in Asia, Espressoh also stands out for community building – a skill that other players, especially in the field of skin care, increasingly hoping to master by 2022.
A natural and vegan skincare brand, Honieh was founded by a local fashion influencer Erika Boldrin in 2019 after she converted to a vegan and healthy lifestyle. Priced from 19 euros to 46 euros, the assortment includes a cleansing cream, a face cream, a multitasking oil, as well as three masks and serums. All formulas are certified by the AIAB association ensuring ingredients are of natural origin, are environmentally friendly, and limit the use of chemical product processes.
In the last year, Honieh started breaking into reality with a pop-up store at Rinascente’s Annex and a corner at Modes.
Also focus on skincare essentials and count recent pop-ups at Milan’s and Venice’s Annex Building T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department stores, Adesso is an Italian brand with a French flair – a blend resulting from the fact that the three sisters behind the company live between the two countries.
Enrica, Mariolina and Cecilia Sangalli wanted beauty solutions that could fit into their on-the-go lifestyle. Hence the name of the brand, which translates to “now” in English, and focuses on the holy trinity of healthy skin: cleansing, protecting and moisturizing. Priced from 20 euros to 35 euros, the products do not require rinsing to limit water consumption and include a rebalancing micellar gel cleanser, a multi-protection mask and a revitalizing facial cream.
Officially launched 6 months ago, Lieve also promotes simple and gentle skin care through clean seasonal formulas that contain more than 95% natural ingredients and are fragrance-free. Product highlights include the Sudden Light and Haruhana multivitamin serums, which include moisturizing cherry blossom extract, plumping hyaluronic acid, and tissue-elastic collagen. The price of this brand ranges from 28 euros to 42 euros.
In sync with this simplified view of skin care, new brands are also focusing on specific segments. Take Darling, for example, sunscreen brands Alberto Giacobazzi and Ilenia Gebennini launched in 2018 with the mission of making SPF products cooler to raise awareness of the importance of protecting skin protection, especially among younger consumers.
As a result, the pastel-toned, recyclable packaging and eye-catching visuals complement the brand’s Made in Italy formula rich in vitamin E, aloe and jojoba oil. Offering medium and high protection lotions, face creams, sunscreens and tanning activators priced from 29 euros to 41 euros, the brand is present in 19 countries in Selected independent stores as well as major retailers such as Liberty and Galeries Lafayette, in addition to its e-commerce.
Instead, Permano focuses on enhancing the hand care experience. Founded by a group of young entrepreneurs from different industries, the brand intends to retool everyday gestures into engaging and sustainable experiences.
After launching with a scented and moisturizing hand sanitizer spray, the range expands to include rich soaps, liquid soaps and hand creams, presented in recyclable aluminum packaging and FSC certificate. With prices ranging from 10 euros to 29 euros, the brand also offers recharge formats.
Another strategy is key ingredient-based branding. For the skincare brand Imersa by Martina Gamboni and Stefano Lorenzoni, this is sericin, a silk protein found in all products to provide long-lasting moisturizing effects as well as protective and elastic properties. .
One of the standout products in this line is the Silk Cocoons exfoliating scrub made with sericin and fibroin, another natural protein of silk that has a textured surface that enhances exfoliation. . Each cocoon in the jar must be dipped in warm water before sticking to the fingers and used to massage the face in a circular motion.
Iuva’s recipes are based on Barbera grape residues from a vineyard in Monferrato, in the Piedmont region. These by-products of the winemaking process are recycled into a concise line of skin care products in a process that also reduces waste and promotes a positive impact on the environment. Retailing online from 17 euros to about 35 euros, the range includes masks and scrubs as well as anti-aging and strengthening creams.
Beauty Thinkers follows a similar path but one rooted in the centuries-old olive trees planted in the hills of Umbria. Launched three months ago by former global general manager of Tod’s Claudio Castiglioni, the brand offers scientific formulations based on hydroxytyrosol, an antioxidant derived from the byproducts of olive oil production.
After research supported by the Universities of Ferrara and Ambrosialab depending on the extraction technology and formula’s performance, the brand launched the Antioxidant Boost face oil and the Antioxidant Cream moisturizer, delivered in sachets. returnable packages for 58 euros and 88 euros respectively.
Also rooted in science, Aeqium raises awareness of the correlation between radiant skin and overall health by providing skincare and nutrition products that work in unison. Priced from 70 euros to 165 euros, the brand, founded by Francesco and Nicola Balestrieri and Alla Reitsma, includes face and body cleansers and creams as well as two dietary supplements aimed at cleansing the body. and enhance the skin’s regeneration process from within.
https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/what-to-watch-new-wave-italian-digital-indie-beauty-brands-1235026347/ New Italian Indie and Instagram-friendly Beauty Brands – WWD