Louis Vuitton Channels Vampire Chic in Teaser for New HBO Show – WWD

Few designers grasp the artwork of time journey like Nicolas Ghesquière. For the final main vogue present earlier than the coronavirus pandemic hit final yr, he created a tableau of 200 characters wearing costumes spanning 5 centuries.

This season, the designer was again on the Louvre museum with a spectacular history-mashing show, reworking the Passage Richelieu right into a ballroom with mirrored panels reflecting the sunshine of 120 classic chandeliers, and a vampire-chic assortment impressed by model ambassador Alicia Vikander’s new HBO sequence.

Ghesquière designed the costumes for the Swedish actress’ character Mira and different forged members in “Irma Vep,” directed by Olivier Assayas and tailored from his 1996 movie of the identical identify. Vikander performs an American film star who involves France to star in a remake of the silent movie traditional “Les Vampires,” and finds the strains between actuality and fiction blurring.

“I just like the determine of a vampire who travels by way of the ages, adapting to decorate codes of the period he lives in whereas sustaining a sure air of the previous,” mentioned Ghesquière, identified for anachronistic pairings like combining 18th-century fashion frock coats together with his futuristic Arclight sneakers. 

His spring lineup cycled by way of a dizzying array of historic kinds, from the opening seems to be, combining the intricate beading of the Twenties with facet pannier buildings and tailcoats, to delicately embellished slip attire casually paired with denims.

Capes had been central to the drama of this evening-centric assortment. They appeared as if pieced collectively from household heirlooms fished out of a trunk: gleaming black satin shoulders segued into gold-embroidered white chiffon, whereas a bell-shaped cocoon was constructed from layers of black shearling and gleaming raincoat materials.

Midway by way of the show, a local weather change protester representing Amis de la Terre France, Youth for Local weather and Extinction Riot took to the runway with a banner that learn “Overconsumption = Extinction.” Whereas criticism of the style business at giant is little doubt justified, on this case it appeared squarely irrelevant.

Not solely will Ghesquière’s designs be produced in extraordinarily restricted portions, however the look of the items was a testomony to the timelessness of luxurious items, which are sometimes handed down between generations, or in recent times, resold a number of occasions on the secondary market – all points the designer contemplated as the home celebrates the two hundredth birthday of its founder.

In the meantime, luxurious is barely changing into extra rarefied within the wake of the pandemic. Balenciaga in July unveiled its first high fashion assortment in additional than half a century, and Ghesquière mentioned he needed to discover essentially the most subtle reaches of his craft.

“I needed to situate this ready-to-wear assortment on the threshold of couture. It’s unabashed luxurious that demonstrates the opulence of the maison’s savoir-faire,” he mentioned in a Q&A launched after the present. 

On the similar time, vogue has by no means been extra democratic, because the strains between clothes and leisure turn out to be more and more blurred. A designer creating costumes for a movie or tv sequence is nothing new. Basing a set round it – with the star within the entrance row – felt like the following stage in product synergy.

“You at all times should be with the medium of your time. It’s not radical. What’s new is the timeliness of the pairing,” mentioned Michael Burke, chairman and chief govt officer of Louis Vuitton.

“If you happen to hit the timing good, the place the Zeitgeist is, it’s all about alignment between varied sorts of tradition. There’s an enormous side of leisure in vogue, and an enormous side of vogue in leisure,” he added. 

This present left little doubt that Ghesquière is a consummate entertainer. He nailed a fragile balancing act: delivering a vogue excessive for insiders nonetheless digesting a month of real-life reveals, and a blinding feast for the eyes for the lay viewers watching at dwelling. And the excitement round “Irma Vep” simply reached one other degree.

See additionally:

Louis Vuitton Is Celebrating Its Founder’s 200th Birthday in a Big Way

Chloe Bailey and Ana de Armas in Front Row at Vuitton Show Disrupted by Protest

Nicolas Ghesquière: Let’s Do the ‘Time Clash’ Again | Louis Vuitton Channels Vampire Stylish in Teaser for New HBO Present – WWD


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