Lockdown Has Been Good to Mary Katrantzou, Who Is Spreading Her Wings – WWD

LONDON – She may no longer be a London Fashion Week fixture, but since her blockbuster Temple of Poseidon Shown in October 2019, Mary Katrantzou breathless.

On February 3, Katrantzou will reveal a collaboration with Villeroy & Boch, her latest venture in two and a half busy years, saw her ink deals with Bulgari and The Rug Company; design rtw collection and couture; married her longtime partner and gave birth to her first child, a boy named Michael.

In an exclusive interview, Katrantzou said the lavish 10-year celebration in her native Greece was an important moment for her and the business, and helped her plan for the future.

“The show was very instructive, and very rewarding for me and for the entire team. It is purposeful and different, and has helped me change my perspective on how a collection can be presented,” as well as how creativity and commerce can combine on the runway, the designer said. design said.

Each of the 23 spring beauties she sends down the dramatic open-air runway, explores a different technique or idea that has its roots in Greek philosophy: An Aristotle quote has been transformed into beads ; Ideas from algebra or trigonometry influenced the veils and geometric structures in the silhouette, while intricate feather embellishments were made to resemble an olive branch, a symbol of harmony. peace and victory in ancient Greece.

“That performance was my love letter to Greece, but it also energizes us during the pandemic. Katrantzou, who continues to sell products from the spring 2020 haute couture collection to private clients and brides, said.

The designer, who gave birth two weeks ago and is living with her son and husband in Greece, is still selling Mary Marea year round rtw collection, including sizes including her signature graphic patterns and bright colors.

The collection is sold at retailers including Matchesfashion.com, Net-a-porter and Harrods.

A year ago, she revealed a handbag collection with Bulgari. The campaign is led by Natalia Vodianova and photographed by fashion photographer Hugo Comte. That partnership with the Italian jeweler is ongoing.

In early 2020, Katrantzou released a collaboration with The Rug Company. Despite the quiet launch, sales were strong, and the move allowed the brand to experiment with its prints and connect with end consumers in new ways.

The relationship with Villeroy & Boch was forged before the pandemic, and Katrantzou said she sees it as a long-awaited opportunity in interior design.

“My mother is an interior designer, and I studied architecture and design. But I never thought I would start with ceramic tiles, I thought I would do small steps, fabric and wallpaper designs,” she said.

Katrantzou is the first designer to cooperate with the German manufacturer in more than 20 years. Her collection is called Victoria and was inspired by collectors of butterflies, the shapes of Victorian tiles, and the 19th-century mosaics on the floors of Villeroy & Boch’s headquarters in Merzig , Virtue.

It is also drawn from Katrantzou’s Fall 2018 Collection, which has an academic – and old world – air, references Pointillism, Bauhaus and Victoriana. The butterflies, busy geometric patterns, and bold colors of the tiles also speak to Katrantzou’s affinity for collections of things like insects or postage stamps.

Katrantzou says the collaboration has allowed her to look at patterns “outside the female figure, and instead be guided by the power of the interior to create an extension of one’s aesthetic.” .

Dr Jörg Schwall, chief executive officer of Villeroy & Boch ceramic tiles, said the partnership with Katrantzou “is a natural evolution in taking the brand in a new direction and offering design enthusiasts opportunity to create their own aesthetic using tiles from this inspiring collection.”

Going forward, Katrantzou said she wants to pursue a long-term partnership so she and her team can invest in their partners and spend significant time planning and designing.

“It was a huge responsibility to design these ranges. There is so much to learn, there are challenges to face and you want these designs to last,” said the designer.

She added that when she was busy designing seasonal two-season collections in London, there was never enough time to collaborate.

“I always feel frustrated. There is a pressure to deliver and we are always in a rush. Now, the dream is to build long-term partnerships and relationships with our partners and their teams,” said Katrantzou.

Fashion will still be at the core of the business, but it won’t be the same as in the old days.

The Mary Mare collection is thriving and the designer still has a studio open in London, but has scaled it down from two floors to one. Katrantzou, she likes the idea of ​​staging a haute couture show for a two-season seasonal rotation.

“The Temple of Poseidon has given me great freedom, and it marks a new chapter,” says Katrantzou.