PARIS — “If we come again to the essence of bijou, it’s a query of steel and stone,” mentioned Chaumet’s chief govt officer Jean-Marc Mansvelt at a presentation showcasing new developments within the Bee My Love line.
Chief amongst these is the all-new Taille Impératrice diamond lower, boasting a hexagonal form with 88 aspects and a 48-degree angle for mild dispersion — fairly than the usual 35-degree used within the good lower — that the jewellery home spent greater than three years creating.
Its creation was impressed by the symbolism of the quantity eight, which figures an infinity signal when flipped on its aspect and is the form of a dance utilized by bees to speak the course, distance and density of vitamins they discover.
Accessible from 0.23 carats to three carats for the most effective impact, the perfect sizes to maximise the lower’s impact for a diamond “rather more putting than a brilliant-cut considered one of comparable dimension and equal high quality,” in keeping with Mansvelt. The brand new lower was deployed to nice impact on a 1-carat solitaire flanked with two smaller diamonds, and on a Y-shaped necklace completed with a 1.5-carat stone.
But it surely additionally made for considered accents on stackable bangles and versatile items that constructed on the thought of a beehive with hexagons seemingly rising onto the pores and skin, designs that can little question proceed to draw a gradual stream of the youthful clientele Bee My Love has been capturing since its launch in 2016.
Additionally fluttering within the neighborhood have been the butterflies and dragonflies imagined by sculptor and jewellery designer Harumi Klossowska de Rola, daughter of the late painter Balthus and artist Setsuko Klossowska de Rola, for Chanel-owned goldsmithing specialist Goossens. For this third chapter, she designed 9 items round these delicate bugs, together with a diadem the place leaves and fluttering wings blended collectively in a trompe-l’oeil impact.
If extra seen jewels have been wanted to crown an outfit, they could possibly be as graphic because the ovals inlaid with mother-of-pearl and related with diamonds of a barrette designed by rising label Viltier, or the numerous headpieces discovered within the second Messika by Kate Moss assortment, which was proven in a runway format — an uncommon alternative for a jewellery home.
However seeing these jewels in movement slotted proper into the temper of the collaboration between founder Valérie Messika and Moss. “Whereas working with Valérie, I felt like I used to be in a vogue home. The joy, the frenzy, the craziness. She thinks of bijou as vogue,” the supermodel mentioned in an e mail trade, including that coming again to Paris felt just like the trade was again and booming.
Fashions together with Cindy Bruna, Isabeli Fontana and Soo Joo Park took to the runway, clad in Alexandre Vauthier designs and adorned with eclectic designs impressed by Moss’ private style and assortment of jewels, be they acquisitions to have a good time milestones or presents. “I like the thought of reinterpreting totally different themes throughout cultural references and inspirations present in jewels with my very own tastes,” Moss mentioned, naming coloured stones — malachite, turquoise and onyx, specifically — as the start line of this assortment articulated into units.
Cue Coloration Play and its pointed ovals that made a form-fitting black costume appear like Black Panther’s heroic getup; the uneven strands of diamonds of the Twisted Wave design worn as a up to date tiara, or an extended necklace from the Liberated Spirit vary, its Artwork Deco pompom swinging jauntily with each step.
The acquainted proportions of the Chanel No.5 bottle have been the very first thing that struck within the excessive jewellery assortment celebrating the enduring scent’s centenary, however many gadgets nodded to the concept fragrance is not any static object. Patrice Leguéreau, director of the home’s high quality jewellery creation studio, gave life to the fragrance inside and even popping out of the bottle in exuberant shows.
That took a wide range of types, from the silhouette of a bottle dripping downward right into a bathe of glittering diamond, tourmaline and morganite drops of the No.5 Cascade, to the sillage given life as a 350-carat radiant array of imperial topaze that took the entire décolletage with the Golden Sillage necklace.
As for the witty Golden Stopper earrings and their uneven spray of fragrance arcing away from one ear, they have been a nod to the fragrance but in addition the joy of somebody opening a bottle of No.5 with gusto — an expansive and costly gesture of non-public luxurious.
Equally liquid was the brand new Serpenti Viper, offered by Bulgari at its Parisian flagship unveiled this summer season and designed by Peter Marino. Identical to its namesake, the brand new variation shed a lot of its animalistic connotations to change into a geometrical motif that curls across the arm or across the neck. Most valuable of all is the Infinite Compositions excessive jewellery set the place the scales change into a sinusoidal design that includes hinged sections to higher wind in opposition to the neck or a wrist.
A stroke of divine inspiration was the start line of this second chapter of high quality jewellery model Tabayer. Founder Nigora Tokhtabayeva was searching for a logo to interchange the attention, which she utilized in her 2017 launch however had discovered to be divisive. Searching for one other image of safety, she found a knot of reeds, image of Mesopotamian goddess Inanna, and turned them right into a graphic loop. Scattered with diamonds or left plain, rings and bracelets figuring a knot’s curl have a up to date mien that belies their vintage inspiration.
A bicycle chain and the concept the one means ahead was to “carry on grinding” within the face of difficulties — a pandemic, financial downturns, you identify it — have been the start line of Nadine Ghosn’s latest high quality jewellery assortment, titled “Lifecycle.” Right here, the playfulness of her earlier collections was changed by some severe mechanical chops. Not solely are the rose gold necklace and bracelets manufactured precisely like their practical inspirations, however diamond-studded variations use the “micro setting” approach so that every stone is dealing with upwards from its gold floor, for max bling.
Movement additionally influenced the label Assertion, which added punky but playful spinner rings adorned with pyramidal studs to its lineup. “I wished to translate the thought you can put your self in movement with out abandoning your fundamentals,” mentioned founder Amélie Huynh of this addition to a high quality jewellery line she envisions as armor for one’s identification.
This was a deeply private assortment for Danish jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe, who drew inspiration from the rose backyard her late father used to have a tendency. She up to date model signatures like drop earrings or necklaces that includes graduating diamonds with floral motifs including a recent, female contact. Elsewhere, Bille Brahe felt the necessity for some further glamour and obtained extra assured with including bigger diamonds on rings and on the bottoms of her well-liked “Fontaine” earrings for further quantity — and excessive impression.
Designing the items of the Robert Mapplethorpe jewellery tribute assortment, to be additional prolonged in 2022, was likewise a deeply emotional expertise for Gaia Repossi. “It was very emotional as a result of I by no means collaborated with somebody who’s now not there,” she mentioned, explaining she’d spent three complete days simply exploring the bric-a-brac in a toolbox the place the late photographer saved the discovered objects he utilized in his jewellery. Amongst these repurposed parts have been the mechanical components that impressed the Mechanic ring, a technical development with hinges that enables the ring to maneuver and makes the finger the central axis of a design that appears somewhat like a motor.
Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga have poured humor and much-needed optimism into the spring 2022 assortment of their model Eéra, which noticed childlike star and smiley face motifs being remodeled into valuable high quality jewellery items, by including diamonds and gold. The gold was painted matte purple or brilliant blue, consistent with the duo’s ongoing aptitude for brilliant coloration and “manipulating how gold is perceived.” Elsewhere, the duo added diamond and neon-hued stud earrings; stacked hoops, and colourful chokers that provided a recent tackle traditional tennis types.
Daylight on water is usually a second suspended in time. For Romain Testuz and Yuliy Schwartzburg, founders of Swiss high quality jewellery model The Rayy, it was as an alternative the beginning of eight years of mathematical analysis that sees a steel floor remodeled right into a jewel that initiatives a picture or message when hit with direct mild. In Sides, their architectural providing made from responsibly sourced 18-karat gold and lab-grown diamonds, it’s the faces imagined by Spanish visible Blanca Miro Skoudi that wink out and in of sight.
https://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewellery/light-movement-and-technical-feats-inspire-jewelers-in-paris-1234967444/ | Gentle, Motion and Technical Feats Encourage Jewelers in Paris – WWD