Kolor RTW Fall 2022 – WWD

Kolor has been working wildly on her own this season, with Junichi Abe’s latest collection capturing the essence of escapism.

Models marched down a box with mirrors, a carpet and stifling runway glass, which grew more and more frantic as the music blared. Surrounded by lines of office workers, the models seem to be the only ones living in color.

But things are just a little different – the collar of the sweater is twisted with the ropes, the lapels are overlapping and undone, the seams are unfinished or inside-out. The pockets are on the outside, offset by a ruffled fabric, but purely decorative. It felt as if something needed to be broken.

Abe has always been adept at combining colors and layers and here he separates jackets, shirts and sweaters and combines them together into unusual combinations. What belongs where? There is a balance in the silhouette, loose but still defined. The coats are long and loose, with large buttons and stitching on the outside to give the t-shirt a more modern feel.

Varsity jackets with patchwork detailing and blazers with long scarves as collars are high points; Rain mutilated parkas so little.

He teamed up with Kijima Takayuki for the wide-brimmed hats, which add a bit of a vintage feel. While he’s added more details and accessories this season, Abe has been working on these ideas for several seasons now, and while he’s honed it well, it runs the risk of becoming a re-read.