Kim Jones Celebrates Dior’s 75th With a Pure ‘Emily in Paris’ Moment – WWD

Why build a set of one of the most ornate bridges in Paris when the original bridge is less than two miles away? Good for one, because getting the perfect weather at your fashion show is the ultimate luxury.

In a cave tent on the Place de la Concorde, Dior created a replica of the Pont Alexandre III, complete with Beaux-Arts lamps, cherries and a horse with golden wings, and placed it against the backdrop. The digital background of the winter sky is gently changing to showcase the fall collection of male art director, Kim Jones.

“It was a dawn in Paris,” Jones said in a preview. “We loved the idea of ​​them walking down the street and we thought, what is the most charming part of Paris?”

To underscore his tribute to the French capital, Malcolm McLaren’s 1994 song “Paris Paris” – featuring Catherine Deneuve – was played on a loop as guests arrived. The colors of the costumes are the same as the broad tones of the slate roofs of the city.

But it’s mostly a tribute to Christian Dior himself, coinciding with the 75th anniversary of the founding of the fashion house he founded (Friday also happens to be Dior’s birthday). “I want to talk with Christian Dior is the ultimate collaboration,” said Jones, who revealed recently that he is switching gears after three years of collaborating with top contemporary artists.

Although his decision was made before the Astroworld disaster forced Dior to indefinitely postpone the launch of the planned spring collection, created with rapper Travis Scott, that tragic event illustrates for the pitfalls of joining forces with a third party.

With Dior’s legacy, Jones was on safe ground. This collection is full of fashion house rules, from quilted “cannage” to leopard prints, and high-low combinations, such as sweatshirts with dense floral embroidery inspired by the piece. Miss Dior couture dress in 1949. It includes sweet nods to Dior’s passion for roses and his dog Bobby.

Jones even succumbed to the Bar jacket’s allure, after initially deeming its hourglass shape too feminine to recapture. By clipping the jacket’s fabric at the hip, using contrasting rough seams, he gave his suit a bit of a curve.

It’s not that the designer hesitates to embrace some of the more vibrant touches of high fashion: the derby shoes drip crystal, while the workwear-inspired jacket is covered with a tulle. delicate embroidery.

Even sweatpants were added. Crafted in silky soft cashmere, they are paired with Birkenstock sandals, which last year joined the list of acquisitions by Dior owner Bernard Arnault, bringing the German footwear maker into a conglomerate. biggest luxury in the world.

Some of the looks feature minimalist berets designed by Stephen Jones, who is celebrating 25 years at the house and who was brought by Jones for the final bow. “They have the right material, so they make the most subtle statement. Of course, because it’s a beret, it’s the French thing and the French joie de vivre,” explained the hatmaker.

Promoting a postcard image of Paris is not without its pitfalls – in a super-model move, Dior even put “Emily in Paris” star Lucien Laviscount in the front row – but Jones is an expert. involved in arousing desire. His fantasy of French luxury is a run home.

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