Pop Art, Op Art and psychedelia; 60s Sci-Fi Astigmatism and Sgt. The Pepper band spirit converged on Jeremy Scott’s colorful journey in the Moschino lineup before the fall of 2022 for men and women.
“Colorblocking is a Moschino the joke that Franco did.… I wanted to take military codes and things that were formal and formal, but let’s do them in bonbon colors and make them feel more playful and surreal,” Scott said in one. Zoom session from his home in Los Angeles.
While his collections can sometimes be too literal (we get it, we get it), this season has ignited the imagination with its layered approach.
He has listed the boastful illusions of Op Art pioneer Victor Vasarely, the fractured statues of painter Richard Lindner and the cramped sculptures of Allen Jones as inspiration. Two of his favorite movies, “A Clockwork Orange” and “Blade Runner,” are also in the aesthetic blender, inspiring the models’ melon hats and exaggerated eye makeup.
Scott put his tailored suits and uniforms – officer coats, sailor suits, riding pants, uniform skirts and coats – through a kaleidoscope, using color palettes and graphic patterns to achieve the powerful surrealism appropriate for these troubled times.
Sewing patterns are dissolved into l’oeil trompe panties, including a low-cut dress with a collar, buttons, pleats and anatomical color blocks at the bust reminiscent of 1960s and designer Rudi Gernreich of LA. Meanwhile, bondage pants, turtlenecks and fake latex mini skirts add a splash.
But there’s so much that anyone can wear – colored leather motorcycle jackets and miniskirts, fun striped jackets, art puff sleeves and outerwear. The evening look is also very strong. The honeycomb and wave patterned gowns and disco dresses look sophisticated, as are the geo-jacquard suits.
Instead of narration, the accompanying short video is simple, letting the details of the ensemble shine through. “I wanted to give a little bit of the ‘Clockwork Orange’ vibe without trying to do a ceremony or pantomime,” he said of the project.
Once you invite Scott to be in the movie, he’s unstoppable. Choosing “Blade Runner” as one of his all-time favorites, he notes how costume designer Michael Kaplan blends genres and time periods. “Most of the collections I do are a mix – with a bit of a 1970s or 1940s feel – always with a hint of cue.… And none of us are living, wearing, and experiencing all of 2021. simultaneous. We have things for different times even if it was five years ago. Michael captured that.”
After spending the holidays in Palm Springs, Scott is preparing to head back to Milan, where he will show the women’s fall 2022 collection live on the runway.
“If I go back to doing more than two shows in a season, I will think about moving them. But the main women, they belong there. It’s really nice to be back to buy accessories,” he said as he spent time at the tailor before this collection. “I haven’t been there since the Marie Antoinette collection, and they’ve got a hold of me.”
https://wwd.com/runway/pre-fall-2022/milan/moschino/review/ Jeremy Scott Gets Graphics for Moschino Pre-Fall 2022 – WWD