Jean Paul Gaultier managing director Antoine Gagey calls the French home’s archive a goldmine, because it spans greater than 30,000 items created by France’s beloved “enfant horrible” over a spectacular 50-year trend profession.
Now the model is opening up that bounty to the general public by renting out spectacular runway seems as a part of a revamped web site that may even promote picks of classic, with the final word purpose of reclaiming the resale enterprise as an in-house enterprise.
Slated to go reside Wednesday, the positioning crystallizes the brand new thrust of the enterprise with its digital-first distribution mannequin, rotating artistic crews, drops as an alternative of collections — and a return to ready-to-wear, six years after the founder halted males’s and ladies’s rtw and 21 months after the acclaimed designer retired from the runway.
In an unique interview, Gagey said its first rtw volley last May, a set dedicated to new interpretations of Gaultier’s fetish sailor theme, successfully offered out “in a few hours,” confirming fervent curiosity within the model and its new strategy, which additionally contains freewheeling collaborations, upcycled gadgets and “interventions” on clothes by the skilled fingers within the Gaultier couture atelier.
“We believed that there was a possible, and we’re very, very proud of our first outcomes,” he stated, citing explicit enthusiasm amongst customers in France, the U.S. and the U.Ok.
A one-off couture assortment by Chitose Abe of Sacai final July — the plan is to ask a unique visitor designer every season — was additionally successful. A 3-way collaboration between Jean Paul Gaultier, Sacai and Nike on a Vaporwaffle sneaker offered out in a matter of minutes, whereas co-branded rtw gadgets in tandem with the couture offered out in days.
The brand new e-store — with enhanced performance and editorial components — represents the model’s fundamental window to the world, a newfangled idea retailer mixing an array of product classes together with fragrances, however with out the same old filtering of males’s and ladies’s.
“We wished it to be genderless. It’s a method to reassert that we’re Jean Paul Gaultier, we’re gender-fluid,” Gagey stated, talking within the maison’s Philippe Starck-designed couture salons.
Furthermore, “we need to discover new methods of shopping for and experiencing trend by mixing in the identical platform, on the identical web page, new seems from our design studio, design collaborations with some company, re-edition of iconic items and in addition classic,” he stated.
For instance, the new-look web site will go reside Wednesday with a big selection of garments primarily based on punk type, together with tartan tailoring, knitwear and jersey items emblazoned with historic logos; a collaboration with New York outerwear firm Schott round custom-made classic perfecto jackets, and an array of merchandise by Paris-based equipment designer Stéphanie D’heygere, together with tin-can bracelets and razor-blade rings.
For true fanatics of the home, which has usually glamorized smoking, there may even be limited-edition resin ashtrays embedded with such artifacts from the couture atelier as embroidered clothes labels, forgotten pins and cigarette butts.
The chance to hire archival Gaultier rtw, together with seems from the ’80s and ’90s, opens up the designer label to a much wider viewers, with costs starting from about 150 euros for a shawl to 700 euros for a cage-style night gown.
The service, anticipated to go reside quickly, arrives at a time when Millennials and Gen Z are starting to shun quick trend in favor of sturdy fundamentals, and switch to classic or leases for extra experimental trend statements.
The preliminary cache of archival seems for hire embody a number of clothes incorporating the designer’s well-known satin cone bra, and a denim outfit for males paved in studs. About 30 gadgets are to grow to be obtainable for hire initially.
“We are going to renew the supply, relying on the developments, for instance if we see sure gadgets within the classic market trending or inflating,” Gagey defined. “The concept is to resume, to shock the shopper and to present them the chance to put on completely different items of Jean Paul Gaultier that they will be unable to purchase just because they don’t exist. These are samples.”
The chief stated the intention is to maintain the rental service fairly unique, and never “invade the market. It’s one other approach for us to discover and keep in touch with the entire fan base,” he famous.
The Puig-owned trend home started meticulously cataloging its archive — repairing, classifying, digitizing and shifting garments and equipment to protected storage — a few yr in the past, and there may be but extra work to do.
Gagey stated the brand new web site will launch with about 50 classic gadgets on the market, sourced through non-public purchasers and resellers, with the final word purpose of turning into the dominant vendor in pre-loved Jean Paul Gaultier. He stated discussions are underway with distinguished resale marketplaces “about potential methods of collaborating. Why not have assist from them? However we need to be working the classic enterprise.…It’s very strategic for us.”
The chief sited sturdy curiosity in classic Gaultier — and rising resale costs — on such distinguished platforms as Vestiaire Collective and Depop, the latter famend for its younger viewers.
“I believe the classic market is the number-one barometer to measure the model fairness of Jean Paul Gaultier, specifically for us as a result of our enterprise is restarting,” he stated. “We’ve additionally seen that a number of the merchandise we now have dropped within the final couple of months, which had been obtainable in very restricted portions…are additionally being resold on secondary markets, typically at 20 instances the value we offered just a few weeks earlier than on our platform.”
Examples embody a tulle gown in sailor stripes, and a T-shirt achieved in collaboration with edgy rapper Lil Nas X, whom Gagey likened to in the present day’s model of the blockbuster Madonna collaboration of yore.
Whereas digital stays the primary distribution automobile for the revamped home, it plans to work with on-line and offline wholesalers for particular assortment drops.
As an example, the brand new punk vary can be offered in any respect Dover Avenue Market areas worldwide, Selfridges in London, Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées in Paris, Voo Retailer in Berlin and Canadian e-tailer Ssense.com, which additionally carried the sailor-themed rtw drop.
Gagey cited two fundamental buyer bases: Extra mature, eternally followers of the beloved French designer, and a younger technology that’s now discovering the ground-breaking, inclusive fashions of the founding couturier and keen to purchase into accessible product classes, corresponding to jersey, with the brand new rtw drops.
Exemplifying the home’s purpose to faucet as extensive an viewers as potential — in tune with the come-one, come-all ethos pioneered by the founder — one of many emblem T-shirts within the punk assortment is available in sizes, all the best way from two months to 4XL.
Gagey famous the following rtw drop is tentatively scheduled for March, whereas its second visitor couturier, Glenn Martens, is to unveil an high fashion assortment in Paris subsequent January.
https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/jean-paul-gaultier-vintage-rental-punk-1234982139/ | Jean Paul Gaultier Ventures Into Classic, Leases on New E-store – WWD