“I wanted something like raw emotion and I hope the clothes reflect that.” Jason Wu said ahead of his Saturday afternoon runway show. Contrasting with his colorful spring collection, the designer wanted the fall designs to reflect his current mood. “I wanted something beautiful and poetic, but also a little more sober,” he added.
Wu infuses these feelings directly into the collection (the collection is also dedicated to his late cat, Jinxy). His first two black suits – a tailored tweed bra and flowing trousers with a peplum-like bow, followed by a beautifully quilted moire jacket – made it cleverly colored.
In addition to a mostly subdued color palette, Wu’s shadows are also influenced by the ’50s illustrations seen in the advertisements and editorials of his vintage magazine collection. For example, layered and ruched tulle skirts, polished tweed and lace tracksuits, and fitted taffeta dresses with translucent florals.
“The idea that everything is done by hand in this fast-paced, digital world is what I’m attracted to – I don’t even own a computer. That way, I guess I’m an old soul,” explains Wu about the collection’s new warp, water-resistant printing.
The designer’s appreciation for craftsmanship and beauty is reflected in his area of expertise: chic, appropriate apparel for special occasions. Unique contrasting waist tights, balloon-hugging gowns, oversized bows, intricate shoulder details and back hats over elegant mini skirts and colored gowns Black and white deserved on the red carpet, as well as vibrant colors. The increase in appearance in dress and neatness also stems from Wu’s advancement in business.
“We haven’t had a lot of good news in the last two years, but last year was our best year for business. You’re going to see tailored outfits because people are going back to big dress styles – we can’t keep dresses in stock,” he said.
https://wwd.com/runway/fall-2022/new-york/jason-wu-collection/review/ Jason Wu RTW Fall 2022 Collection – WWD