For the second time on the official Paris calendar, Belgian designer Jan-Jan Van Essche sought to create something eternal.
The Belgian designer was captured by the gamine aura of Swiss photojournalist Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who embarked on a long road trip from Europe to Afghanistan just before World War II, chronicled in her book “Blue Immortal, A Journey in Afghanistan”.
“Timeless luxury is impressive,” he told WWD.
The result is a collection in sand and earth tones, a throwback to the designer, who has always favored muted palettes, but experimented with bold colors last season. Aviator jackets are revisited in white wool and gray cotton, and plain suits are interpreted in bronze.
Subtle nods to traditional Afghan dress are evident in the long, loosely tied robes and cozy shawls reminiscent of chapels; Thick scarves were tied loosely around the head and draped over the shoulders. Men wear pleated skirts over jeans, and so do women – Annemarie’s androgynous collection.
Even with his generous cuts, he creates unexpected proportions that elevate – but never overwhelm – the pieces. This collection shows once again how well-versed he is at layering.
https://wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2022/paris/jan-jan-van-essche/review/ Jan-Jan Van Essche Men’s Fall 2022 – WWD