Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Men’s Fall 2022 Collection Was About Arcs – WWD

In search of new silhouettes, the design team of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake set out – an hour and a half journey outside Tokyo. There they set up a number of tents, the arc forms of which inspired the fall collection, called A Work of Arc.

“In fact, putting the poles through the fabric of the tent is like creating many folds and folds in a pleated fabric,” explains Issey MiyakeArt director Satoshi Kondo, who, along with his colleagues (after a curry meal during a traditional camping trip) applied these findings to the brand’s pleated garments for the season. collect.

The collection is full of powerful, sculptural silhouettes with graceful movements and meticulously crafted. For a model of pants, instead of having the pleats run vertically or horizontally as is the tradition of Homme Plissé, they run diagonally, intersecting by the ridges running around the leg.

A giant, pentagonal jacket consisting of three main converging pieces of fabric, each with a different direction of pleat, inspired by the feeling of sitting in a tent. “Flip coats” go from long to short (or vice versa) with straps that can be fastened at the shoulders.

The collection features saturated colors, such as red, blue, and orange. There’s a “lantern” print – inspired by the Stargazer tent and the way the lantern light glows through the tent fabric.

For the video presentation of the collection, the idea was to show the garments from a variety of angles, so the slow motions feature models doing things like dancing.