Forever 21, Ross, GBG Low Score in Rework Accountability Report – WWD

The results lie in this year’s fashion accountability violators – at least according to the nonprofit Remake’s second annual accountability report.

Forever 21Ross, Global brand group, TJX Cos. Inc., Edinburgh Lenlen Mill, The Children’s Place, Mothercare, JC Penney Co. Inc., Sears, Kohl’s Corp., American Eagle Outfitters Inc., Lululemon Athletica, Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Fashion Nova, Missguided and Walmart Inc. . was among the worst of the lot – causing a negative score on a possible scale of 150 – in the report released Wednesday.

The remake is based on consultations with more than a dozen industry experts on human rights, employment, fashion and law, as well as public disclosures. This non-profit organization scored 60 fashion companies, covering haute couture, fast fashion, children’s clothing and more. A cross-section representing the most profitable companies in the sector, as well as a number of smaller brands such as Christy Dawn, Nudie Jeans and Nisolo, were sampled last year.

Core assessment areas include transparency, wages and benefits, trade practices, raw materials, environmental justice and climate change, governance, diversity and inclusion.

New this year, Remake scored companies on “product output” or volume of goods and total environmental impact, and performed a circular cleanup task, which the nonprofit organization described as the new “norm”.

In November 2020, Supreme, Allbirds, and Everlane are among Remake’s worst sustainability offendersand this year’s deep dive was no less competitive, with scores as low as -13 (awarded to Forever 21 and Ross), the average score was 17 points and the highest score was 83 points (awarded to Nisolo).

Small and medium-sized enterprises scored four times better (37 points on average) than large corporations – with an average score of 9 points.

“[Ross] is one of the most profitable apparel companies in the world, believe it or not, and one of the least socially responsible, as is evident by its scores. Some of the merchandise in Ross retail stores is made exclusively for its stores, and those products are made with an incredible track record for human rights. In fact, Ross Dress for Less is one of the leading violators of wage theft in California’s garment factories, having benefited for years from the state’s tailoring conditions. state,” the report notes.

The Remake report authors also point out that Ross Stores “allows its trade associations to lobby against California’s Apparel Workers Protection Act,” a piece of historical law aimed at wage theft passed in California in September.

In its relationship with Ross, Forever 21 has been prized for its low-cost, fast-fashion business model, although it is no longer the “king of fast fashion,” as the report notes.

“This brand has risen to fame time and time again by paying the tailors in Los Angeles, stealing from young designers and the black community, and refusing to divulge any worthy information. which trust can make its supply chain more transparent,” continued Remake’s review. Like other violators, the California company never endorsed the Apparel Workers Protection Act. “The only area where Forever 21 scored was on animal welfare, which is a red herring that disperses the company’s reliance on oil-based fabrics like polyester.”

Global brand group, similarly, is shamed for having a board stake in the Footwear and Apparel Association of America, which campaigned against the act. Some 37% of the companies, or 22 companies, reported lobbying against the bill or were complicit in trade lobbying.

At the other end of the range, Nisolo was the brand that scored highest for being an active listener and putting “significant social sustainability efforts in the public domain,” according to the report.

“This is exactly what we want brands to do, so residents and workers can hold brands to account. The Nashville-based leather goods brand is notable for being the only company to provide evidence that not only apparel manufacturers and their direct employees earn living wages, but that models, So do their photographers, photo assistants, and logistics staff. The company is also transparent about the number of products it produces (61,773 last year across the entire category) and its carbon footprint,” according to the report. But there is always room for improvement, as the report authors call for more details on Nisolo’s raw material suppliers, particularly in terms of leather sourcing.

Other captions include “showering when you wake up” or running campaigns to engage communities of color without permanent teeth or contributing to decision-making, as only 12% of companies invest in the communities in which they operate, or just 8% of companies can demonstrate a living wage.

While the report reveals science-based climate targets are being set, with 55% of companies declaring Scope 1, 2 (direct) and 3 (indirect) emissions – report insists only one company, Levi’s, is on the right track.

“Levi’s was an early adopter of more sustainable practices such as water-saving and less toxic denim production, and was one of the first major brands to set ambitious carbon-cutting targets for its supply chain. me. Levi’s has reported a 2020 CO2 reduction in line with its science-based target, and it’s the only major company that can demonstrate this kind of progress (however, the brand says the pandemic could contribute mitigations, so we’ll be monitoring them closely next year),” according to the report.

The full report can be found at Remake’s website and, in addition, the nonprofit will hold a press conference on Wednesday to discuss its findings. Forever 21, Ross, GBG Low Score in Rework Accountability Report – WWD


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