Fashion Advocates Believe ‘Fashion Act’ Lacks Key Elements – WWD

Now not one, but two, letters written in amendments to the “Fashion Act,“Or S7428, a clear bill on New Yorklegislative circuit of and fashionagenda of.

With special attention from the world fashion industry, many praised the effort while raising concerns about its shortcomings. The bill hopes to hold fashion multinational corporations (doing business in New York and has $100 million in global revenue) responsible by requiring partial supply chain mapping, emissions targets, and due diligence reports (for half of its supply chain) within 18 month.

What it lacks: a full supply chain that includes reverse logistics, per sector reuse, as well as some “disclosure” enforcement, according to labor groups.

In a letter sent on January 14, a group of 20 labor and advocacy groups, including the non-profit Remake, the Floor Wage Asia Coalition, Fibershed, Fashion Revolution and others, have addressed the need for collective accountability, penalties and remedies remedy in the performance of the appraisal.

The letter points to the French and German and Norwegian Vigilance Obligation Laws as the “blueprint” for a successful due diligence directive to bind accountability and redress grievances, in the words of Remake’s founders. , Ayesha Barenblat, and the California Transparency Act and UK Modern Slavery Act like “failure” for lack of execution.

Many of the key points in the labor group’s letter – like the demand for “30% advance payment of the order” or “final payment within 30 days of delivery” – have driven demand for fashion. turned terrible as pandemic difficulties exacerbated existing lax payments — true even in the heart of New York’s Garment District, let alone workers elsewhere.

For many New York-based manufacturers, the reality of having to reduce payments that are several months past due can sometimes make basic rent and bills a burden. One producer – who wished to remain anonymous for fear of reprisal – said it was owed more than $55,000 in payments that were overdue for several months.

Meanwhile, the reuse sector has its own grievances that need to be voiced when it comes to the Fashion Act.

In a letter sent on Wednesday, reuse advocates called for waste, or a “cyclical hierarchy,” as defined by the World Resources Institute, extending manufacturers’ responsibilities to with excess or returned inventory, product durability standards and compensations for the global textile recycling community, where the majority of textiles and Clothing donations ended. The language is said to disrupt the bill’s current proposed funding allocation to “New York’s environmentally fair communities.”

The letter was drafted by Circular Services Group founder Rachel Kibbe, along with waste industry experts Marisa Adler and Anna Sacks (whom Generation Z might recognize as “The Trash Walker” on TikTok), Liz Ricketts and J. Branson Skinner, co-founders of The Or Foundation; and Caroline Priebe, founder of the Center for the Advancement of Apparel.

The team has amassed support from CEOs and executives from Another Tomorrow, ThredUp, Trove, Thriller, Treet, Rec Precision, Kept Sku, The Or Foundation, Center for the Advancement of the Apparel Industry, Society National Management Action Council, Wearable Collection, Returns, Intersectional Environmentalist House and Innovation Workshop, among others.

“Before I read the bill, I looked at the press and thought ‘this is amazing.’ It’s the top end of the supply chain, and it’s exposed to some of the data and commitment we lack most. It’s strategic excellence – at the state level with global implications,” said Kibbe. “Then I read the bill and realized that there was a line that talked about separating growth through textile recycling, but didn’t mention reuse. As someone who has worked on our global textile waste problem for many years, this is cause for concern. This can be of great significance. Recycling is only one part of a multi-pronged approach to separating growth from extracting virgin resources. In terms of the environment, separating growth from new production works according to a waste hierarchy, outlined by both the EPA and WRI, and that hierarchy begins with reuse.”

Extending product life – where manufacturer references remind us to “reduce, reuse, recycle” – is a fashion trend that was and for good reason: Profits Excess profits are expected to top $760 billion, according to a report released this week. National Retail Federation and Appriss Retailer.

Meanwhile, textile waste makes up 6% of US landfills, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, and that number is only expected to grow. According to the New York Department of Sanitation, New Yorkers throw away 200,000 tons of clothing and document every year, much of which is sent to landfills or incinerated.

Resale has surpassed retail in the context of and beyond the pandemic, according to multiple reports, and Kibbe believes that ignoring the bill’s reuse could have unintended consequences.

“The data shows that recycling is the back of the line [next best use],” she says. “Reuse can include, repairing…resell, rentals and upgrades – anything that keeps new resources untapped and restricts carbon, chemical and water inputs. In addition, to scale recycling, there are infrastructure and end-to-end considerations that need to be outlined, which we cover in the letter. The letter addressed the need to invest in recycling infrastructure, especially in “the developing economies most affected by textile waste downstream of us”.

Kibbe believes the bill, in its current form, is like a “hive of wasps”. “There is a war of recycled content in the apparel industry right now. Sky high price. There’s been this strain to get more recycled content… We need some waste maps. ”

James Reinhart, CEO of ThredUp expressed his support for the Fashion Act, saying: “We believe it will inspire further collaboration and action across the industry. We hope this effort will shed light on the importance of responsible textile waste management and the role of resell and circularity in reducing the industry’s impact on our planet. ”

According to co-founder and CEO Adam Siegel, another resale company that is gaining ground in partnership with the brand, Recurate, has also offered to support the Act that “incentivizes the apparel and fashion industries to promote global operations more sustainably, creating circular solutions on a large scale”.

For criticism of fashion’s practical ability to rally together on the best path forward (attracting the attention of groups like “Fashion Persuader”, and the like), Kibbe clarifies the intent of the letter.

“[The] The intention is to support the bill and also add to improve it through, at the very least, add reuse to the bill,” she said. “We won’t build a perfect system tomorrow, far from it, but everything we’re building together should be a better version of what we’re doing now and the bones of the future. The bill will be improved with this amendment.” Fashion Advocates Believe ‘Fashion Act’ Lacks Key Elements – WWD


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