Dries Van Noten Blurred Gender Lines With His Fall 2022 Collection – WWD

Dries Van Noten has found a clever expression for these uncomfortable times – a Neopolitan role dressed as a metaphor for “a little tenderness and support.

“Everybody needs a solid shoulder to lean on,” suggested the Belgian designer.

This slightly puffed sleeve top, created with a horsehair and cotton cigar, also brought a sexist mood to his fall men’s collection, which featured glittering lurex pants. and plain shirt interwoven with oversized puffer jacket and handsome double-breasted jacket.

The fashion messages are subtle, yet direct: baggy trousers and designer pants, ’90s-inspired sportswear, while tropical prints or simply splashes abstract color.

Van Noten plans to give a filmed presentation for women’s fashion week in Paris next month, and it’s here that Danish photographer Casper Sejersen shoots his blurry lens on guys. Boy and girl are cuddling, flirting and flirting in a dilapidated mansion in Paris.

“Dream Baby Dream,” a catchy 1979 song by British band Suicide, emphasizes the look of androgynous rockers – with a model as the ringtone for young Kurt Cobain.

Quirky accessories add to the collection’s playful, carefree spirit: slim, sparkly scarves or bucket hats are made from the same soft fluff that teddy bear maker Steiff of Germany used. Quilted shorts and shocking pink trousers – unusual styles that continue to feature in men’s collections this season – also make an appearance.

Van Noten notes that his men’s and women’s collections have long used similar fabrics and silhouettes, albeit cut to fit and accentuate the body shapes of each gender. “It would be a shame to erase all the differences and create something like saggy clothes with a stretchy waist,” he mused.