Clean Beauty and Sustainable Beauty, at NYSCC Supplier Day – WWD

The desire for clean, clinical ingredients across all categories continues unabated.

At the New York Cosmetic Chemists Association’s annual Supplier Day, held in person November 10 and 11, the main theme is ingredients that tick all the boxes of an establishment. Consumers are increasingly educated and demanding.

Program participants said that biotechnology was on the minds of many potential customers, beyond ingredients advertised as “clean” and especially those with minimal impact on the environment. school.

“We see the market trend is towards green and natural technology beauty, beauty, but there is still a lot of demand for biotechnology and active ingredients, such as peptides,” said Susan Sperring, technical director, Symrise AG. “Despite the greater focus on natural materials, there are still a large number of people searching for peptides.”

Symrise innovations include skin and hair care, and even among synthetic materials, sustainability is paramount. “Last year, we had a big launch for scalp care, so we have four ingredients for scalp care. Some are natural,” says Sperring. “We look at the needs of the market, and how we can source materials and supply them as green and sustainable as possible. If that’s not possible, we’re still looking at sustainability, even if we’re looking at aggregates.”

Under several booths, Gael Boyenval, Robertet’s business development manager for health and beauty, beauty, agrees, adding that clinical backing is becoming the bets on the table. “The beauty industry is very emotional: so you have the emotional connections that people turn to,” he says. “Now, people are expecting effectiveness and that’s what we’re trying to confirm with clinical trials on our ingredients,” including botanicals and aromatics. natural, such as essential oils and plant extracts.

Some suppliers also want to find a “Clean” The sweet spot between the two factions, promises effectiveness while also taking into account the desire to claim natural products.

“In the middle of a formula, there are texturers, emulsifiers, surfactants. Victor Zubb, head of sales for Givaudan’s active cosmetic ingredients division, tells how we can turn them into a palm- and oil-based product, turning them into a product instead. natural products or biotechnology.

“We are an active component company in Givaudan The fragrance division and we are supplying the ingredients as brands want to make claims about anti-aging and turning back time in skin care. The other part is hair care, trying to do new things with scalp or hair care products. We create biotech products for those applications,” he continued.

Finding solutions that can appeal to both ends of the marketing spectrum is a priority for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, an IFF-owned supplier. “We find consumers equally concerned about both: .

Similarly, Italy-based Roelmi HPC turned their attention to the skin microbiome. Lamberto Anzalone, the company’s regional manager for the US, Canada and Latin America, said: “Everybody is looking for natural, yet natural products that work and you need to have, more than that, lasting. Effective in preventing the disruption of the skin microflora. “The ‘clean’ part is exploding, but it needs to be effective. Biotechnology is still in the game, as science is required. ”


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