It was flashback time for photographers on the Chanel present, which was staged in a duplicate of the Carrousel du Louvre, the cavernous venue that hosted many Paris Style Week reveals within the Nineteen Eighties and Nineteen Nineties.
Snappers have been grouped round a raised runway for a high-energy present that dropped at thoughts late inventive director Karl Lagerfeld’s supermodel extravaganzas within the ’90s. Fashions flipped their hair, jutted their hips and winked as they paraded in graphic swimsuits, logo-patterned clothes and tweed fits in a throwback palette of lilac, pink and yellow.
Whereas some had a discipline day with the temporary, others have been visibly much less snug vamping it up. The prize for Most Successful Smile went to Jill Kortleve, whereas Mariam de Vinzelle gained for Most Dramatic Hair Toss, and Louise de Chevigny for Finest Use of an Accent, for her deft approach with a chiffon stole.
With the Grand Palais present process renovations, Chanel switched to a short lived substitute venue close to the Eiffel Tower for its first runway present with an viewers in 12 months. The darkish, cramped setting afforded much less of a stage for peacocking Chanel purchasers, however gave inventive director Virginie Viard an excuse to play with the present format.
Since succeeding Lagerfeld following his demise in 2019, she has introduced in quite a lot of massive names to shoot the model’s campaigns and press kits, which Lagerfeld personally lensed for greater than three many years. “I’ve by no means taken footage, nevertheless it’s one thing that fascinates me,” Viard stated in a preview. “It magnifies the gathering.”
The present decor, dominated by a large picture of mannequin Vivienne Rohner holding a digicam, was a tribute to these image-makers, together with Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who have been positioned on the finish of the rostrum to document the motion for Chanel’s digital broadcast later within the day.
Company entered by means of a room the place large screens confirmed black-and-white footage of name ambassadors, together with Lily-Rose Depp and Blackpink’s Jennie, selecting up cameras and preening in a director’s chair. Inside, photographers jostled to get an image of the celebrities in particular person.
Rohner was first on the runway, in a low-cut white swimsuit and black T-shirt that have been an ideal foil for the equipment: two-tone flats, a black 2.55 purse, an oversize quilted tote and oodles of necklaces, within the sort of pileup that Lagerfeld made a trademark of ‘90s Chanel.
Some seems to be appeared teleported from that period: a cropped T-shirt with “Chanel” spelled out in sequins was paired with a protracted black skirt with a thong peeking over the waistband, whereas a pink cardigan got here with an identical crop prime and shorts. Purses formed like bottles of No. 5 fragrance, which celebrates its centenary this yr, are positive to generate ready lists.
Viard supplied outsized jackets in quite a lot of hues, together with a lilac model printed with double-C logos. Miniskirts featured prolonged flaps within the again, whereas a black leather-based quilted dungaree had the aura of an on the spot traditional.
Flou tends to be Viard’s weak level, and this present was no exception, with a closing sequence of chiffon clothes in an outsized butterfly print that felt like a downer, in comparison with the remainder of the colourful lineup.
Viard took a danger by transporting her viewers again to a golden interval for Chanel, operating the hazard of being unfavorably in contrast together with her predecessor. Whereas the media-shy designer won’t ever match Lagerfeld’s bombastic presence, this was a customer-friendly outing that ought to hold the model’s money registers ringing.
https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2022/paris/chanel/evaluation/ | Chanel Evokes ’90s Supermodel Period With Upbeat Spring Style Present – WWD