Cathy Horyn Fashion Review: Gucci Love Parade


Photograph: David Crotty/Patrick McMullan by way of Getty Picture

Earlier than the beginning of Gucci’s Love Parade on Hollywood Boulevard final night time, and earlier than the celebrities took their seats in director’s chairs on the sidewalk, I walked the size of the well-washed block, from one financial institution of klieg lights to the subsequent. I needed to grasp not solely the size of the well-known strip, residence to such landmarks because the Chinese language and El Capitan Theaters and the Stroll of Fame, but additionally the attainable causes Alessandro Michele had for selecting it because the backdrop for his spring 2022 assortment.

Was it the knife-edge stability between nostalgia and distress? The previous Grauman’s Chinese language Theater holds red-carpet premieres, and the elegant Roosevelt Resort is close by, however so are the tents of homeless residents. (Gucci, maybe to go off a possible PR fiasco, introduced it will give $1 million in grants in “the areas of homelessness, psychological well being, and youth tradition.”) Was it the intense, manufactured aspect of glamour and the cheesy, all-too-real flip aspect that intrigued Michele, who as soon as hosted a cocktail occasion within the Hollywood Eternally cemetery? On Tuesday night time, the overwhelming majority of stars — Diana Keaton, Lizzo, Billie Eilish, Serena Williams, Angelica Huston, Gwyneth Paltrow, to say a number of — have been seated smack-dab towards the storefronts on one aspect of the road, whereas different friends have been seated on the alternative sidewalk. In between have been 4 lanes of empty pavement that had a diminishing impact on everybody. As soon as the present started, I had an urge to whip out my opera glasses to see Gwyneth’s classic red-velvet Gucci pantsuit, however, alas, I left them at residence with my lengthy gloves and tiara.

Photograph: Courtesy of Gucci

Contemplating that Michele’s garments performed to all of the beautiful-and-the-damned contrasts, it’s truthful to imagine he selected Hollywood Boulevard for a similar purpose. Life is each sensations, he stated throughout a post-show press convention. He additionally famous that Gucci has its roots not within the European aristocracy or bourgeois society, as most vogue homes in Paris and Rome do, however reasonably within the jet set, cinema, and American customers. Lengthy earlier than Armani conquered Hollywood together with his soft-tailored energy fits, Gucci’s snaffle-bit loafers and taupe emblem luggage have been the factor. And, in fact, Tom Ford, who designed the Paltrow swimsuit, in 1996, introduced his personal cinematic verve and achy-achy longing to Gucci.

Certainly, I felt the Ford years on this assortment at occasions, particularly a glance that featured beige-pink satin bra cups on the entrance of a black coat (it fondly dropped at thoughts a Ford present from the early 2000s that I loathed) and maybe satin suiting with boxed-shoulder jackets. For his half, Michele saved shifting the aesthetic from polished glamour to hustler glamour (conveyed with cowboy hats and three-piece satin fits, minus a shirt) to washed-up glamour (a reasonably beautiful and unhappy gold lace robe with a droopy red-velvet hem and a white fake-fur fling.) The cast also had a world-weary quality, and included the singer St. Vincent, in a dramatic black cape and peculiar cat’s-eye glasses; the artist Miranda July, in cunning garters and a cheerful, fruit-adorned sweater; and the previous youngster star Macaulay Culkin, whose outfit — souvenir-print shirt, light-colored trousers with a tan GG belt, windbreaker — appeared virtually deliberately drained of glamour.

Photograph: Courtesy of Gucci

Although the size of the boulevard overwhelmed the garments, and although the fashions have been oddly inexpressive, virtually sad-looking — in distinction to Demna Gvasalia’s comedian red-carpet present or Balenciaga in October — I really feel sure the model’s digital genies will nonetheless create an exquisite advertising video. Which is the purpose of the entire train. There have been some terrific components within the present, notably the various pantsuits, a number of of the splashy siren robes, the patterned stockings, and the cowboy hats, which I predict will supplant Gucci caps. However to seek for a contemporary slant, an revolutionary reduce or element is to look in useless. The model is the message.

And the factor is, it may have been quite a bit much less reductive in its pondering. That’s what Gvasalia demonstrated together with his intelligent red-carpet present and collaboration with the creators of The Simpsons. He additionally proved it together with his couture present in July, which despatched couture into a brand new stratosphere. You may be much more thought of a couple of assortment and its intersection with tradition (or not), and nonetheless tick the branding bins.

How rather more electrifying would Gucci’s Love Parade (an echo of the MGM Parade sequence of the mid-’50s) have been had Michele skipped the clichéd backdrop and as an alternative, say, staged his model of a Hollywood musical? That may have been enjoyable and a lot extra beneficiant in spirit. | Cathy Horyn Vogue Overview: Gucci Love Parade


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