Brioni Men’s Fall 2022 – WWD

Milan’s medieval Palazzo Durini was the stage for Brioni’s presentation, and design director Norbert Stumpfl projected images of Rome, where the brand was founded, onto the fresco walls in the building, creating a special link between the two cities. “I love the raw feel of this palazzo,” says the designer.

While he certainly set the tone for the presentation, the suit said a lot about luxury. Brioni stands for and its craftsmanship, as shown in a Vicuna black outerwear and jacket with hand-painted leather buttons, or a shirt with a crocodile leather bib and cashmere sleeves and back.

Lightness was of paramount importance to Stumpfl when creating the fall collection, as he presented a newly redesigned and more comfortable silhouette – without neglecting details such as the leather on the drawstring of the shoe. pants, also hand-painted. “This is an old school way of working, but adapted to new designs, in sync with the times,” he said.

The designer drew inspiration from Breughel the Elder’s painting “Allegory of Air,” displayed at Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj, both in color palette, ranging from shades of blue to green, and in “the dynamism and lightness that Breughel exudes as he works to capture the image of the air – something that is both invisible but also essential. “The combo of shirt and alpaca pants for babies is the highlight.

This season’s Brioni has reached out to women, introducing a range of six styles that are an extension of the men’s and women’s clothing designs, although Stumpfl declined to provide any forecasts for the segment. at this moment.