Bob Mackie Dishes on His New Book, Cher, Edith Head, More – WWD

Though Bob Mackie was already well-known for dressing a bevy of stars when he moved to New York to be a designer in 1982, he wasn’t precisely welcomed with open arms.

Opinions of his runway exhibits — one was held on the Shubert Theatre, one other impressed by Lucille Ball, Rita Hayworth, Grace Kelly, Betty Boop and different well-known type icons — had been blended. And he was dismissed by some as “Mr. Hollywood.”

“It’s the oddest factor, they gave me names like ‘Barnum Bob’ as a result of they didn’t know what to do with me.”

After all, now, all anybody needs to speak about is Hollywood.

Mackie, a fancy dress designer first, was forward of his time. One solely has to look to Gucci’s current Love Parade on Hollywood Boulevard, impressed largely by Alessandro Michele’s infatuation with film stars and their costumes, to know that.

Out Nov. 16, a brand new guide titled “The Artwork of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster) by Frank Vlastnik and Laura Ross, presents contemporary perception into his colourful life and expertise as an artist. With a foreword by Carol Burnett and an afterword by Cher, it options a whole lot of images and sketches from Mackie’s private assortment.

Enjoyable anecdotes from the designer element how he helped collaborators get into character, and reworked singers into solo stars (Cher after Sonny, Tina Turner after Ike, Diana Ross after the Supremes, to call a number of), all whereas influencing vogue traits alongside the way in which.

Throughout quarantine, Mackie resettled to Palm Springs, Calif. A globetrotter’s dream, each sq. inch of his new house is roofed with fabulous finds. Hand-carved wooden banana bushes from Bali sit in the lounge nook and Indonesian unique fowl heads on the kitchen island, whereas beaded necklaces encircle candles on a credenza. The toilet partitions are papered with images of the ladies he’s dressed through the years, from Liza Minnelli to Brooke Shields.

“We found out lately I’ve been within the union as a fancy dress designer for 60 years — it’s a little bit terrifying,” stated Mackie, 82, whose work remains to be reverberating in popular culture, whether or not it’s on the 2021 Tony Awards crimson carpet, the place Bernadette Peters re-wore a starry sequin Mackie gown from 1983 that’s pictured within the guide, or at Los Angeles’ newly opened Academy Museum of Movement Photos, the place his iconic 1986 black beaded midriff-baring robe and feather headpiece for Cher is one of only a handful of Oscar looks on display.

Bernadette Peters arrives at the 74th annual Tony Awards at Winter Garden Theatre on Sunday, Sept. 26, 2021, in New York. (Photo by Evan Agostini/Invision/AP)

Bernadette Peters arrives on the 74th annual Tony Awards carrying Bob Mackie.
Evan Agostini/Invision/AP

Mackie himself is the topic of a long-awaited movie directed by Matthew Miele, due out subsequent yr after being delayed due to COVID-19, with commentary from Elton John, Tom Ford, Mel Ottenberg and extra.

After racking up 9 Emmys, three Oscar nominations and a Geoffrey Beene CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, Mackie struggles with seeing how his work is utilized by modern designers.

For instance, though he helped create John’s picture, designing the long-lasting Donald Duck, Dodgers uniform and Devil costumes, when Julian Day re-created — or as a minimum reimagined — them for the 2019 biopic “Rocketman,” Mackie’s title was not talked about.

“I don’t get credit score, however I don’t care,” Mackie stated. “At 82 years outdated, you aren’t attempting to make too massive an impression.”

And but, he has.

“After I met Alessandro [Michele] on the Met [Gala] a number of years in the past, he began crying. [John] Galliano, too. They reacted so unusually about me. I didn’t even suppose they knew who I used to be!”

Michele created a group in 2017 impressed by Mackie’s Nineteen Seventies costumes for Elton John (and requested Mackie for permission forward of time).

For the Gucci “Aria” assortment in April, he paid tribute to Marilyn Monroe’s Jean Louis-designed, Mackie-sketched “Glad Birthday Mr. President” gown from 1962 with a sheer blush lace and feather robe revealing a bra and thong beneath.

“I didn’t design that, however I did the sketch and it was actually easy,” stated Mackie of probably the most notorious practically nude celeb robes in historical past, which echoed in Rihanna’s completely nude 2014 Adam Selman robe worn to the CFDA Awards.

On the time he sketched it, Louis was engaged on “One thing’s Acquired to Give,” the Marilyn Monroe movie that by no means obtained completed due to her demise.

“It’s not that surprising nevertheless it’s sort of boring,” Mackie stated of all of the nudity in vogue now, from the runways to the road.

Images from “The Art of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)

Bob Mackie sketch for Jean Louis gown worn by Marilyn Monroe. “The Artwork of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)
Courtesy of Bob Mackie

Whereas Mackie’s work in Hollywood is well-covered within the guide, his work on Seventh Avenue is much less so.

Even earlier than shifting to New York in 1982, he designed a group of Mod clothes with longtime associate, costume designer Ray Aghayan. They launched it in 1969 at a storefront on Melrose Avenue.

The launch social gathering was attended by quite a lot of luminaries, together with Burnett and costume designer Edith Head, who employed Mackie in 1961 to be her sketch artist at Paramount Studios.

“Edith was humorous, she didn’t like the truth that I’d been working together with her a few years, then unexpectedly I obtained one other job as an assistant on ‘The Judy Garland Present,’” Mackie remembered. “She was supposed to try this present.

“She did radio exhibits, ‘Artwork Linknletter’s Houseparty,’ she gave out recipes for cookbooks, it was all about holding Edith’s title on the market,” he dished. “However I favored her. She would flirt with the producers like a younger lady. And I’m like, OK, if that works! When she went to Paramount, she cheated her manner in. She borrowed — or stole — paintings from Chouinard Artwork Institute, from the attic the place they saved outdated college students’ work, and she or he obtained the job at Paramount. A man who was nonetheless there after I was there stated — and this was within the Nineteen Twenties — he caught her crying as a result of she couldn’t do the work. She was everybody’s assistant for years, then she stored pushing and pushing and getting her personal stars. She’s an attention-grabbing character.”

Worthy of her personal movie, it looks as if. A lady working her manner up in a fancy dress designers’ world dominated in these days by males, and ultimately successful eight Oscars — so there.

Edith Head and Bob Mackie

Edith Head and Bob Mackie in 1969.
Courtesy of Bob Mackie

Whereas Head could have “stolen” from Chouinard, now known as CalArts, whereas she took night courses to brush up on her expertise, Mackie was one of many faculty’s most well-known drop-outs.

Having gained all of the costume design prizes already, as he tells it, Mackie was able to work.

Working alongside Aghayan, an completed costume designer in his personal proper, at “The Judy Garland Present” was a quick introduction to Hollywood. Mackie met rising stars like Minnelli, Lena Horne and Diahann Carroll, and ultimately obtained equal billing along with his associate. The 2 gained the primary Emmy given by the Academy of Tv Arts, for the 1966 color-soaked fantasy “Alice By way of the Trying Glass.”

Thus started an extended profession in TV, the place Mackie helped deliver performers into the swinging Sixties, Mitzi Gaynor and Fred Astaire to call two, and sprinkled his sequin stardust on Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Bette Midler, Pink and lots of extra pop stars into the Aughts.

Images from “The Art of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)

Cher, Elton John and Diana Ross wearing Mackie on the 1975 Grammy Awards. From “The Artwork of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)
Courtesy of Bob Mackie

For “The Carol Burnett Present” beginning in 1967, he designed 60 to 70 costumes per week for 11 years. “There have been occasions after I didn’t know the way I used to be going to play a personality in a sure sketch till I may see how I used to be going to look and what I used to be going to put on,” Burnett writes within the guide’s foreword.

For the 1968 “The Fred Astaire Present,” a song-and-dance particular, he decked out the 68-year-old in turtlenecks, Nehru jackets and groovy trousers.

He first met Cher when she was a visitor on Burnett’s present when, because the story goes, she was coveting certainly one of his beaded robes on the rack. She advised Mackie, “Gee, I hope sometime I can ask you to make one thing like this for me.”

By 1971, he was additionally designing costumes for “The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour” down the corridor at CBS. It was the golden age of selection exhibits, and every week was a fancy dress spectacular.

“You couldn’t give away a halter gown till I began placing it on Cher. Then, that’s all malls needed,” he stated. (The star was additionally the unique commonplace bearer of midriff vogue, now in all places, together with on Zendaya on the CFDA Awards.)

However Mackie additionally dressed Cher in lots of stereotypes, he conceded, “Belongings you can’t do now,” he stated, commenting on the Native American head clothes she wore for the album “Half Breed,” particularly, as being insensitive.

Mackie additionally designed a number of motion pictures, from Diana Ross’ elegant 1972 Billy Vacation biopic “Girl Sings the Blues,” to John Travolta’s ill-advised 1983 “Staying Alive,” to the notorious 1978 “Star Wars Vacation Particular,” of which, legend has it, George Lucas has purchased up each final copy.

“It’s one of many worst exhibits ever, however ‘Star Wars’ followers need something to do with. They got here calling and requested if I had sketches — the present had Bea Arthur, Harvey Korman, Artwork Carney, it had some good folks. I bought them at public sale, no matter sketches had been left. I obtained some good cash.…You do what it’s a must to on the time,” he stated.

In Eighties New York, Mackie’s bedazzled eveningwear was his most profitable class, and he spun off licenses for the whole lot from furs to perfume. He’s been designing a group for QVC since 1992, and in addition sells sketches and limited-edition Barbie dolls on his web site.

However he by no means reached the rarified realm of Invoice Blass, Oscar de la Renta or Carolina Herrera.

“Vogue was odd then, it was actually for that middle-aged lady who had cash; that’s who they did the garments for,” he stated of how his glitzy type was interpreted.

The guide highlights Elizabeth Courtney, an unsung hero, whose workroom was the place Hollywood’s largest costume designers did their fittings on Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Monroe, Cher, Peters and extra.

Mackie’s costumes for “The Judy Garland Present,” “The Carol Burnett Present” and “The Sonny & Cher Present” had been all executed in her studio. “She had numerous bedside method and these girls adored her and trusted her,” Mackie stated. “She began within the early Thirties. Her husband was a barber, her son grew to become a stunt man within the motion pictures. We realized so much about becoming from her.”

Images from “The Art of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)

Mackie sketch for Pink’s 2009 “Funhouse” tour. From “The Artwork of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)
Courtesy of Bob Mackie

If his relationships along with his stars sound a bit just like the celebrity-stylist relationships of right now, suppose once more. “A few of them are good, and know simply what to placed on the individual, and a few of them simply herald lots of stuff. For me, a star must appear to be the viewers needs them to look, however a bit higher than normal.

“Was, for those who had been a fancy dress designer working with an actress on a undertaking, you’d find yourself doing an outfit for them to put on to the Oscars, since you’d be seeing them on a regular basis. And in addition, they needed to pay for his or her clothes or the studios did. Fairly often, the studios did in the event that they had been publicizing a movie or beneath contract.”

Now, actresses are beneath contract with luxurious manufacturers, not studios.

“As soon as Armani began giving them free garments, I stated nicely that’s that. I assumed it was so humorous these girls who obtained thousands and thousands of {dollars} for being in a film obtained so excited a couple of free gown,” he stated.

Mackie, it seems, was typically the voice of motive when it got here to Cher’s outlandish crimson carpet seems to be. “I’d attempt to discourage her, and say ‘Are you positive you wish to put on that? You’ll be pulling focus from whoever you give an award. However the subsequent morning her image could be in all places after which for the subsequent 30 years, too. She knew and she or he loves to decorate up, too.”

Bob Mackie Dishes on His New

Cher walks on stage on the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion in Los Angeles for the 58th annual Academy Awards ceremony, March 25, 1986.
AP Picture/Reed Saxon

Trying again now on his 60-year profession, Mackie does have a number of regrets. “We had been provided ‘The Nice Gatsby’ movie and didn’t take it. That was a tough one. However my greatest associates had been Cher and Carol Burnett and so they had been in the identical studio, proper subsequent to one another. I wasn’t simply going to stop,” he stated of his resolution in regards to the 1974 movie. “Theoni Aldredge obtained an Oscar however the movie wasn’t precisely successful.”

Nonetheless, his whole profession, the Oscar has eluded him. “I had three nominations, however it could be enjoyable to have an Oscar. For present enterprise, I in all probability shouldn’t have gone to New York to do vogue. However everybody considered me as doing Cher and there was a lot publicity of me on the time…”

His final undertaking was “The Cher Present” on Broadway, which opened in 2018. He designed 600 costumes, together with for Michael Berresse, the actor who performed a extra flamboyant model of Mackie’s real-life L.L. Bean persona. The designer took house his first Tony Award for the manufacturing.

“I might like to do one other present, nevertheless it’s my very own fault. I adore it right here, nevertheless it’s not good for work. It’s simply not,” he stated, searching over his pool to the mountains. “I labored so a few years, however I don’t wish to give it up both, I need all of it.”

Bob Mackie in his California home.

“The Artwork of Bob Mackie” (Simon & Schuster)
Rozette Rago/WWD | Bob Mackie Dishes on His New E-book, Cher, Edith Head, Extra – WWD


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