“Like all of us, dreaming about getting away. Not a selected place, however actually simply someplace unique, tropical, with plenty of solar, plenty of water. So, I put collectively a complete fantasy of it,” Anna Sui mentioned throughout a group preview appointment in her showroom. On Saturday afternoon, Sui transported showgoers into her getaway oasis (i.e., intimate runway present) at Indochine, full with customized, collection-inspired Saint Germain “Paradisiac” cocktail and Nineteen Fifties Tiki Lounge soundtrack (cheekily blended with HBO’s “The White Lotus” opening theme music).
On the runway, Sui’s tropical trip mindset began with a procession of shades of neon pinks and greens (toned down by khaki and influenced by the fluorescent work of Niki de Saint Phalle) and into ombre and Technicolor hued fashions that made up Sui’s trip necessities.
“I needed to have this cabana jacket, and I needed to discover this terrycloth to trim it with,” she mentioned of a sea and glo-green tropical Havana-printed jacket atop knit “wave runner” high and pant.
“I wished a Hawaiian shirt, however a costume, so we mixed the sarong,” of the lovely inexperienced quantity. “Swim types blended in. Quintessential seashore.” Test, verify.
As all the time, the designer piled the seems chock-full of texture, print on print, and joyful vibrancy from head to toe. Archival references additionally instantly got here into play; her spring 2004 retro surf shirts have been reinvigorated for as we speak in spandex, whereas the present was modernly styled in the identical upbeat, layered demeanor.
There was crocheted swimwear and chunky Daisy Chain equipment (jewellery, water bottle holders) over ample patchworked and lace-trimmed colourful mesh tops (a nod to Sui’s sportif jersey T-shirts from 1996); simple, candy, tropical-printed silk linen and silk cotton voile attire, skirts and tops with rainbow 3D floral crochet and waved knit cover-ups. Vivid, denim painter’s chore jackets and skirts have been juxtaposed with lighter, technical nylon types (slightly ombré romper or retro floral housedress), ethereal, cabana stripe and Dazzling Dahlia printed units, and Sui’s kaftan of the season in lace. Her collaborators and buddies, too, amped up the gathering’s escapist really feel with vibrant footwear (John Fluevog, Teva), printed socks (Atsugi for Anna Sui), playful jewellery (Daisy Chains, Bailliecelene), floral equipment (Erickson Beamon), colourful kerchiefs and enormous raffia hats. Layers apart, for the actual world, the gathering supplied ample pleased fashions suited to the seashore and past.
“The temper is perpetually upbeat and something goes,” present notes learn, aptly describing the sun-drenched, beachy daydream that was Sui’s spring assortment.
https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2022/new-york/anna-sui/assessment/ | Anna Sui RTW Spring 2022 – WWD