Aelis designer Sofia Crociani has toyed with the idea of memory and time this season, adding vintage elements to her collection with a slightly darker base.
Antique lace, jewelry and crystals from her personal collection have been replaced with a personal touch, and Crociani has worked once again with air-light mousseline and tulle for sherbet sheer gowns. hers.
Stronger, sculptures are made of satin, such as a small dark purple dress that wraps around the body in a large swaddle. Another coat is a white coat, embellished with lace and crystals, topped with a pair of classic Levi’s Red Tab cropped boots. The surprising combination of duchesse and denim is intended to evoke memories of the pre-90s social media, grunge and Kurt Cobain.
“It’s a small homage,” Crociani told WWD. “It was a moment when something very extraordinary was happening, a freedom [that] feel special. It’s tragically but also liberating. The structure of haute couture needs a bit of freedom. Some models also go barefoot in the accompanying film to add another layer of comfort, around artist Gabriele Dal Dosso’s light installations.
Using 30 year old jeans is a sign of sustainability and she doesn’t shy away from her eco ethos, sourcing from Italian and Japanese factories can provide traceability sustainable supply chain roots. This sensibility, she says, appeals to her younger clientele, who are more environmentally conscious.
Crociani said of this house: “We are going very fast in this society but we like to go slow. How slow? An ethereal slick dress topped with humanely sourced feathers took two years to collect by hand.
https://wwd.com/runway/spring-couture-2022/paris/aelis/review/ Aelis Couture Spring 2022 – WWD